Arizona Sketches

 

By Joseph A. Munk

 

 

CHAPTER

 

I.    A ROMANTIC LAND

II.   MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA

III.  THE OPEN RANGE

IV.   RANCH LIFE

V.    THE ROUND-UP

VI.   RANCH HAPPENINGS

VII.  A MODEL RANCH

VIII. SOME DESERT PLANTS

IX.   HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS

X.    CANON ECHOES

XI.   THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN

XII.  THE CLIFF DWELLERS

XIII. THE MOQUI INDIANS

XIV.  A FINE CLIMATE

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER I

A ROMANTIC LAND

 

A stranger on first entering Arizona is impressed with the

newness and wildness that surrounds him.  Indeed, the change is

so great that it seems like going to sleep and waking up in a

new world.  Everything that he sees is different from the

familiar objects of his home, and he is filled with wonder and

amazement at the many curious things that are brought to his

notice.  Judging the country by what is common back east, the

average man is disappointed and prejudiced against what he sees;

but, estimated on its merits, it is found to be a land of many

attractions and great possibilities.

 

A hasty trip through the country by rail gives no adequate idea

of its intrinsic value, as such a limited view only affords a

superficial glimpse of what should be leisurely and carefully

examined to be properly understood or appreciated.  At the first

glance it presents the appearance of a desert, but to one who is

acquainted with its peculiarities it is by no means desolate.  It

furnishes a strong contrast to the rolling woodlands of the far

east, and to the boundless prairies of the middle west; and,

though it may never develop on the plan of the older states, like

California, it has an individuality and charm of its own; and its

endowment of natural wealth and beauty requires no borrowing from

neighbors to give it character or success.

 

It has grand scenery, a salubrious climate, productive soil, rich

mineral deposits and rare archaeological remains.  It also has a

diversified fauna and flora.  The peccary, Gila monster,

tarantula, centipede, scorpion and horned toad are specimens of

its strange animal life; and, the numerous species of cacti,

yucca, maguey, palo verde and mistletoe are samples of its

curious vegetation.  It is, indeed, the scientist's Paradise

where much valuable material can be found to enrich almost every

branch of natural science.

 

Hitherto its growth has been greatly retarded by its remote

position in Uncle Sam's domain; but, with the comparatively

recent advent of the railroad, the influx of capital and

population, and the suppression of the once dreaded and

troublesome Apache, a new life has been awakened that is destined

to redeem the country from its ancient lethargy and make it a

land of promise to many home seekers and settlers.

 

When the Spaniards under Coronado first entered the land more

than three hundred and fifty years ago in search of the seven

cities of Cibola, they found upon the desert sufficient evidence

of an extinct race to prove that the land was once densely

populated by an agricultural and prosperous people.  When or how

the inhabitants disappeared is unknown and may never be known.

It is even in doubt who they were, but, presumably, they were of

the Aztec or Toltec race; or, perhaps, of some civilization even

more remote.

 

The Pueblo Indians are supposed to be their descendants, but, if

so, they were, when first found, as ignorant of their ancestors

as they were of their discoverers.  When questioned as to the

past they could give no intelligent answer as to their

antecedents, but claimed that what the white man saw was the work

of Montezuma.  All that is known of this ancient people is what

the ruins show, as they left no written record or even tradition

of their life, unless it be some inscriptions consisting of

various hieroglyphics and pictographs that are found painted upon

the rocks, which undoubtedly have a meaning, but for lack of

interpretation remain a sealed book.  The deep mystery in which

they are shrouded makes their history all the more interesting

and gives unlimited scope for speculation.

 

Arizona is a land that is full of history as well as mystery and

invites investigation.  It has a fascination that every one

feels who crosses its border.  Paradoxical as it may seem it is

both the oldest and newest portion of our country--the oldest in

ancient occupation and civilization and the newest in modern

progress.  In natural wonders it boasts of the Grand Canon of

Arizona, the painted desert, petrified forest, meteorite

mountain, natural bridge, Montezuma's well and many other marvels

of nature.  There are also ruins galore, the cave and cliff

dwellings, crumbled pueblos, extensive acequias, painted rocks,

the casa grande and old Spanish missions.  Anyone who is in

search of the old and curious, need not go to foreign lands, but

can find right here at home in Arizona and the southwest, a

greater number and variety of curiosities than can be found in

the same space anywhere else upon the globe.

 

Arizona is a land of strong contrasts and constant surprises,

where unusual conditions prevail and the unexpected frequently

happens.

 

From the high Colorado plateau of northern Arizona the land

slopes toward the southwest to the Gulf of California.  Across

this long slope of several hundred miles in width, numerous

mountain ranges stretch from the northwest to the southeast.

Through the middle of the Territory from east to west, flows the

Gila river to its confluence with the Colorado.  This stream

marks the dividing line between the mountains which descend from

the north and those that extend south, which increase in altitude

and extent until they culminate in the grand Sierra Madres of

Mexico.

 

The traveler in passing through the country never gets entirely

out of the sight of mountains.  They rise up all about him and

bound the horizon near and far in every direction.  In riding

along he always seems to be approaching some distant mountain

barrier that ever recedes before him as he advances.  He is never

clear of the encircling mountains for, as often as he passes out

of one enclosure through a gap in the mountains, he finds himself

hemmed in again by a new one.  The peculiarity of always being in

the midst of mountains and yet never completely surrounded, is

due to an arrangement of dovetailing or overlapping in their

formation.  His winding way leads him across barren wastes,

through fertile valleys, among rolling hills and into sheltered

parks, which combine an endless variety of attractive scenery.

 

An Arizona landscape, though mostly of a desert type, is yet full

of interest to the lover of nature.  It presents a strangely

fascinating view, that once seen, will never be forgotten.  It

stirs a rapture in the soul that only nature can inspire.

 

Looking out from some commanding eminence, a wide spreading and

diversified landscape is presented to view.  Though hard and

rugged, the picture, as seen at a distance, looks soft and smooth

and its details of form and color make an absorbing study.

 

The eye is quick to note the different hues that appear in the

field of vision and readily selects five predominating colors,

namely, gray, green, brown, purple and blue, which mingle

harmoniously in various combinations with almost every other

color that is known.  The most brilliant lights, sombre shadows,

exquisite tints and delicate tones are seen which, if put on

canvas and judged by the ordinary, would be pronounced

exaggerated and impossible by those unfamiliar with the original.

 

The prevailing color is gray, made by the dry grass and sandy

soil, and extends in every direction to the limit of vision.  The

gramma grass of the and region grows quickly and turns gray

instead of brown, as grasses usually do when they mature.  It

gives to the landscape a subdued and quiet color, which is

pleasing to the eye and makes the ideal background in a picture.

 

Into this warp of gray is woven a woof of green, spreading in

irregular patches in all directions.  It is made by the

chaparral, which is composed of a variety of desert plants that

are native to the soil and can live on very little water.  It

consists of live oak, pinion, mesquite, desert willow,

greasewood, sage brush, palmilla, maguey, yucca and cacti and is

mostly evergreen.

 

The admixture of gray and green prevails throughout the year

except during the summer rainy season, when, if the rains are

abundant, the gray disappears almost entirely, and the young

grass springs up as by magic, covering the whole country with a

carpet of living green.   In the midst of the billowy grass

myriads of wild flowers bloom, and stand single or shoulder to

shoulder in masses of solid color by the acre.

 

Upon the far mountains is seen the sombre brown in the bare

rocks.  The whole region was at one time violently disturbed by

seismic force and the glow of its quenched fires has even yet

scarcely faded away.  Large masses of igneous rocks and broad

streams of vitrified lava bear mute testimony of the change,

when, by some mighty subterranean force, the tumultuous sea was

rolled back from its pristine bed and, in its stead, lofty

mountains lifted their bald beads above the surrounding

desolation, and stand to-day as they have stood in massive

grandeur ever since the ancient days of their upheaval.  Rugged

and bleak they tower high, or take the form of pillar, spire and

dome, in some seemingly well-constructed edifice erected by the

hand of man.  But the mountains are not all barren.  Vast areas

of fertile soil flank the bare rocks where vegetation has taken

root, and large fields of forage and extensive forests of oak

and pine add value and beauty to the land.

 

The atmosphere is a striking feature of the country that is as

pleasing to the eye as it is invigorating to the body.  Over

all the landscape hangs a veil of soft, purple haze that is

bewitching.  It gives to the scene a mysterious, subtle

something that is exquisite and holds the senses in a magic spell

of enchantment.

 

Distance also is deceptive and cannot be estimated as under other

skies.  The far-off mountains are brought near and made to glow

in a halo of mellow light.  Manifold ocular illusions appear in

the mirage and deceive the uninitiated.  An indefinable dreamy

something steals over the senses and enthralls the soul.

 

Arching heaven's high dome is a sky of intense blue that looks so

wonderfully clear and deep that even far-famed Italy cannot

surpass it.  The nights are invariably clear and the moon and

stars appear unusually bright.  The air is so pure that the stars

seem to be advanced in magnitude and can be seen quite low down

upon the horizon.

 

The changing lights that flash in the sky transform both the

sunrise and sunset into marvels of beauty.  In the mellow

afterglow of the sunset, on the western sky, stream long banners

of light, and fleecy clouds of gold melt away and fade in the

twilight.

 

At midday in the hazy distance, moving slowly down the valley,

can be seen spiral columns of dust that resemble pillars of

smoke.  They ascend perpendicularly, incline like Pisa's leaning

tower, or are beat at various angles, but always retaining the

columnar form.  They rise to great heights and vanish in space.

These spectral forms are caused by small local whirlwinds when

the air is otherwise calm, and are, apparently, without purpose,

unless they are intended merely to amuse the casual observer.

 

A cloudy day is rare and does not necessarily signify rain.

Usually the clouds are of the cumulus variety and roll leisurely

by in billowy masses.  Being in a droughty land the clouds always

attract attention viewed either from an artistic or utilitarian

standpoint.  When out on parade they float lazily across the sky,

casting their moving shadows below.  The figures resemble a

mammoth pattern of crazy patchwork in a state of evolution spread

out for inspection.

 

The impression that is made while looking out upon such a scene

is that of deep silence.  Everything is hushed and still; but, by

listening attentively, the number of faint sounds that reach the

ear in an undertone is surprising.  The soft soughing of the wind

in the trees; the gentle rustle of the grass as it is swayed by

the passing breeze; the musical ripple of water as it gurgles

from the spring; the piping of the quail as it calls to its mate;

the twitter of little birds flitting from bush to bough; the

chirp of the cricket and drone of the beetle are among the sounds

that are heard and fall soothingly upon the ear.

 

The trees growing upon the hillside bear a striking resemblance

to an old orchard and are a reminder of home where in childhood

the hand delighted to pluck luscious fruit from drooping boughs.

A walk among the trees makes it easy to imagine that you are in

some such familiar but neglected haunt, and instinctively you

look about expecting to see the old house that was once called

home and hear the welcome voice and footfall of cherished memory.

It is no little disappointment to be roused from such a reverie

to find the resemblance only a delusion and the spot deserted.

Forsaken as it has been for many years by the native savage

Indians and prowling wild beasts, the land waits in silence and

patience the coming of the husbandman.

 

 

 

CHAPTER II

MY FIRST TRIP TO ARIZONA

 

I recall with vivid distinctness my first trip to Arizona and

introduction to ranch life in the spring of 1884.  The experience

made a deep impression and has led me to repeat the visit many

times since then, with increased interest and pleasure.

 

During the previous year my brother located a cattle ranch for us

in Railroad Pass in southeastern Arizona.  The gap is one of a

series of natural depressions in a succession of mountain chains

on the thirty-second parallel route, all the way from New Orleans

to San Francisco over a distance of nearly twenty-five hundred

miles.  The Southern Pacific Railroad is built upon this route

and has the easiest grade of any transcontinental line.

 

Railroad Pass is a wide break between two mountain ranges and is

a fine grazing section.  It is handsomely bounded and presents a

magnificent view.  To the north are the Pinaleno mountains, with

towering Mt. Graham in their midst, that are nearly eleven

thousand feet high and lie dark in the shadows of their dense

pine forests.  Far to the south rise the rugged Chiricahuas, and

nearby stands bald Dos Cabezas, whose giant double head of

granite can be seen as a conspicuous landmark over a wide scope

of country.  The distance across the Pass as the crow flies is,

perhaps, fifty miles.  Beyond these peaks other mountains rise in

majestic grandeur and bound the horizon in every direction.

 

At the time that the ranch was located the Pass country was

considered uninhabitable because of the scarcity of water and the

presence of hostile Indians.  No permanent spring nor stream of

water was known to exist in that whole region, but fine gramma

grass grew everywhere.  Its suitability as a cattle range was

recognized and caused it to be thoroughly prospected for water,

which resulted in the discovery of several hidden springs.  All

of the springs found, but one, were insignificant and either soon

went dry or fluctuated with the seasons; but the big spring,

known as Pinaleno, was worth finding, and flows a constant stream

of pure, soft water that fills a four-inch iron pipe.

 

When the spring was discovered not a drop of water was visible

upon the surface, and a patch of willows was the only indication

of concealed moisture.  By sinking a shallow well only a few feet

deep among the willows, water was struck as it flowed through

coarse gravel over a buried ledge of rock that forced the water

up nearly to the surface only to sink again in the sand without

being seen.  A ditch was dug to the well from below and an iron

pipe laid in the trench, through which the water is conducted

into a reservoir that supplies the water troughs.

 

Again, when the ranch was opened the Indians were bad in the

vicinity and had been actively hostile for some time.  The ranch

is on a part of the old Chiricahua reservation that was once the

home and hunting grounds of the tribe of Chiricahua Apaches, the

most bold and warlike of all the southwest Indians.  Cochise was

their greatest warrior, but he was only one among many able

Apache chieftains.  He was at one time the friend of the white

man, but treachery aroused his hatred and caused him to seek

revenge on every white man that crossed his path.

 

His favorite haunt was Apache Pass, a convenient spot that was

favorable for concealment, where he lay in wait for weary

travelers who passed that way in search of water and a pleasant

camp ground.  If attacked by a superior force, as sometimes

happened, he invariably retreated across the Sulphur Spring

valley into his stronghold in the Dragoon mountains.

 

Because of the many atrocities that were committed by the

Indians, white men were afraid to go into that country to settle.

Even as late as in the early eighties when that prince of

rascals, the wily Geronimo, made his bloody raids through

southern Arizona, the men who did venture in and located ranch

and mining claims, lived in daily peril of their lives which, in

not a few instances, were paid as a forfeit to their daring.

 

The Butterfield stage and all other overland travel to California

by the southern route before the railroads were built, went

through Apache Pass.  Although it was the worst Indian infested

section in the southwest, travelers chose that dangerous route in

preference to any other for the sake of the water that they knew

could always be found there.

 

The reputation of Apache Pass, finally became so notoriously

bad because of the many murders committed that the Government,

late in the sixties, built and garrisoned Ft. Bowie for the

protection of travelers and settlers.  The troops stationed at

the post endured much hardship and fought many bloody battles

before the Indians were conquered.  Many soldiers were killed and

buried in a little graveyard near the fort.  When the fort was

abandoned a few years ago, their bodies were disinterred and

removed to the National cemetery at Washington.

 

Railroad Pass is naturally a better wagon road than Apache Pass,

but is without water.  It was named by Lieut. J. G. Parke in 1855

while engaged in surveying for the Pacific Railroad, because of

its easy grade and facility for railroad construction.

 

I timed my visit to correspond with the arrival at Bowie station

on the Southern Pacific Railroad, of a consignment of ranch goods

that had been shipped from St. Louis.  I was met at the depot by

the ranch force, who immediately proceeded to initiate me as a

tenderfoot.  I inquired of one of the cowboys how far it was to a

near-by mountain.  He gave a quien sabe shrug of the shoulder and

answered me in Yankee fashion by asking how far I thought it was.

Estimating the distance as in a prairie country I replied, "Oh,

about a mile."  He laughed and said that the mountain was fully

five miles distant by actual measurement.  I had unwittingly

taken my first lesson in plainscraft and prudently refrained

thereafter from making another sure guess.

 

The deception was due to the rarefied atmosphere, which is

peculiar to the arid region.  It not only deceives the eye as to

distance, but also as to motion.  If the eye is steadily fixed

upon some distant inanimate object, it seems to move in the

tremulous light as if possessed of life, and it is not always

easy to be convinced to the contrary.  However, by putting the

object under inspection in line with some further object, it can

readily be determined whether the object is animate or still by

its remaining on or moving off the line.

 

Another peculiarity of the country is that objects do not always

seem to stand square with the world.  In approaching a mountain

and moving on an up grade the plane of incline is suddenly

reversed and gives the appearance and sensation of going

downhill.  In some inexplicable manner sense and reason seem to

conflict and the discovery of the disturbed relation of things is

startling.  You know very well that the mountain ahead is above

you, but it has the appearance of standing below you in a hollow;

and the water in the brook at your feet, which runs down the

mountain into the valley, seems to be running uphill.  By turning

squarely about and looking backwards, the misplaced objects

become righted, and produces much the same sensation that a man

feels who is lost and suddenly finds himself again.

 

We immediately prepared to drive out to the ranch, which was ten

miles distant and reached by a road that skirted the Dos Cabezas

mountains.  The new wagon was set up and put in running order and

lightly loaded with supplies.  All of the preliminaries being

completed, the horses were harnessed and hooked to the wagon.

The driver mounted his seat, drew rein and cracked his whip, but

we didn't go.  The horses were only accustomed to the saddle and

knew nothing about pulling in harness.  Sam was a condemned

cavalry horse and Box was a native bronco, and being hitched to a

wagon was a new experience to both.  The start was unpropitious,

but, acting on the old adage that "necessity is the mother of

invention," which truth is nowhere better exemplified than on the

frontier where conveniences are few and the most must be made of

everything, after some delay and considerable maneuvering we

finally got started.

 

The road for some distance out was level and smooth and our

progress satisfactory.  As we drove leisurely along I improved

the opportunity to look about and see the sights.  It was a

perfect day in April and there never was a brighter sky nor

balmier air than beamed and breathed upon us.  The air was soft

and tremulous with a magical light that produced startling

phantasmagoric effects.

 

It was my first sight of a mirage and it naturally excited my

curiosity.  It seemed as if a forest had suddenly sprung up

in the San Simon valley where just before had appeared only bare

ground.  With every change in the angle of vision as we journeyed

on, there occurred a corresponding change in the scene before us

that produced a charming kaleidoscopic effect.  The rough

mountain was transformed into a symmetrical city and the dry

valley into a lake of sparkling water,--all seeming to be the

work of magic in some fairyland of enchantment.

 

In a ledge of granite rock by the wayside were cut a number of

round holes which the Indians had made and used as mills for

grinding their corn and seeds into meal.  Nearby also, were some

mescal pits used for baking the agave, a native plant that is in

great demand as food by the Indians.  The spot was evidently an

old rendezvous where the marauding Apaches were accustomed to

meet in council to plan their bloody raids, and to feast on

mescal and pinole in honor of some successful foray or victory

over an enemy.

 

We next crossed several well-worn Indian trails which the Apaches

had made by many years of travel to and fro between their

rancherias in the Mogollon mountains and Mexico.  The sight of

these trails brought us back to real life and a conscious sense

of danger, for were we not in an enemy's country and in the midst

of hostile Indians?  Nearly every mile of road traveled had been

at some time in the past the scene of a bloody tragedy enacted by

a savage foe.  Even at that very time the Apaches were out on the

warpath murdering people, but fortunately we did not meet them

and escaped unmolested.

 

The road now crossed a low hill, which was the signal for more

trouble.  The team started bravely up the incline, but soon

stopped and then balked and all urging with whip and voice failed

to make any impression.  After several ineffectual attempts to

proceed it was decided not to waste any more time in futile

efforts.  The horses were unhitched and the wagon partly

unloaded, when all hands by a united pull and push succeeded in

getting the wagon up the hill.  After reloading no difficulty was

experienced in making a fresh start on a down grade, but a little

farther on a second and larger hill was encountered, when the

failure to scale its summit was even greater than the first.   No

amount of coaxing or urging budged the horses an inch.  They

simply were stubborn and would not pull.

 

Night was approaching and camp was yet some distance ahead.  The

driver suggested that the best thing to do under the

circumstances was for the rest of us to take the led horses and

ride on to camp, while he would remain with the wagon and, if

necessary, camp out all night.  We reluctantly took his advice,

mounted our horses and finished our journey in the twilight.

Aaron, who was housekeeper at the ranch, gave us a hearty welcome

and invited us to sit down to a bountiful supper which he had

prepared in anticipation of our coming.  Feeling weary after our

ride we retired early and were soon sound asleep.  The only

thing that disturbed our slumbers during the night was a coyote

concert which, as a "concord of sweet sounds was a dismal

failure" but as a medley of discordant sounds was a decided

success.  The bark of the coyote is particularly shrill and sharp

and a single coyote when in full cry sounds like a chorus of

howling curs.

 

We were all up and out early the next morning to witness the

birth of a new day.  The sunrise was glorious, and bright

colors in many hues flashed across the sky.  The valley echoed

with the cheerful notes of the mocking bird and the soft air was

filled with the fragrance of wild flowers.  The scene was grandly

inspiring and sent a thrill of pleasure through every nerve.

 

While thus absorbed by the beauties of nature we heard an halloo,

and looking down the road in the direction of the driver's

bivouac we saw him coming swinging his hat in the air and driving

at a rapid pace that soon brought him to the ranch house.  In

answer to our inquiries as to how he had spent the night he

reported that the horses stood quietly in their tracks all night

long, while he slept comfortably in the wagon.  In the morning

the horses started without undue urging as if tired of  inaction

and glad to go in the direction of provender.  They were

completely broken by their fast and after that gave no further

trouble.

 

After a stay of four weeks, learning something of the ways of

ranch life and experiencing not a few exciting adventures,

I returned home feeling well pleased with my first trip to the

ranch.

 

 

 

CHAPTER III

THE OPEN RANGE

 

Arizona is in the arid belt and well adapted to the range cattle

industry.  Its mild climate and limited water supply make it the

ideal range country.  Indeed, to the single factor of its limited

water supply, perhaps, more than anything else is its value due

as an open range.  If water was abundant there could be no open

range as then the land would all be farmed and fenced.

 

Arizona is sometimes spoken of as belonging to the plains, but it

is not a prairie country.  Mountains are everywhere, but are

separated in many places by wide valleys.  The mountains not only

make fine scenery, but are natural boundaries for the ranches and

give shade and shelter to the cattle.

 

There are no severe storms nor blizzard swept plains where cattle

drift and perish from cold.  The weather is never extremely cold,

the mercury seldom falling to more than a few degrees below

freezing, except upon the high plateaus and mountains of northern

Arizona.  If it freezes during the night the frost usually

disappears the next day; and, if snow flies, it lies only on the

mountains, but melts as fast as it falls in the valleys.  There

are but few cloudy or stormy days in the year and bright, warm

sunshine generally prevails.  There has never been any loss of

cattle from cold, but many have died from drought as a result of

overstocking the range.

 

The pastures consist of valley, mesa and mountain lands which, in

a normal season, are covered by a variety of nutritious grasses.

Of all the native forage plants the gramma grass is the most

abundant and best.  It grows only in the summer rainy season

when, if the rains are copious, the gray desert is converted into

a vast green meadow.

 

The annual rainfall is comparatively light and insufficient to

grow and mature with certainty any of the cereal crops.  When the

summer rains begin to fall the rancher is "jubilant" and the "old

cow smiles."  Rain means even more to the ranchman than it does

to the farmer.  In an agricultural country it is expected that

rain or snow will fall during every month of the year, but on the

range rain is expected only in certain months and, if it fails to

fall then, it means failure, in a measure, for the entire year.

 

Rain is very uncertain in Arizona.  July and August are the rain

months during which time the gramma grass grows.  Unless the rain

falls daily after it begins it does but little good, as frequent

showers are required to keep the grass growing after it once

starts.  A settled rain of one or more days' duration is of rare

occurrence.  During the rainy season and, in fact, at all times,

the mornings are usually clear.  In the forenoon the clouds begin

to gather and pile up in dark billowy masses that end in showers

during the afternoon and evening.  But not every rain cloud

brings rain.  Clouds of this character often look very

threatening, but all their display of thunder and lightning is

only bluff and bluster and ends in a fizzle with no rain.  After

such a demonstration the clouds either bring wind and a

disagreeable dust storm, or, if a little rain starts to fall, the

air is so dry that it evaporates in mid air, and none of it ever

reaches the earth.  In this fashion the clouds often threaten to

do great things, only to break their promise; and the anxious

rancher stands and gazes at the sky with longing eyes, only to be

disappointed again and again.

 

As a rule water is scarce.  A long procession of cloudless days

merge into weeks of dry weather; and the weeks glide into months

during which time the brazen sky refuses to yield one drop of

moisture either of dew or rain to the parched and thirsty earth.

Even the rainy season is not altogether reliable, but varies

considerably one year with another in the time of its appearance

and continuance.

 

The soil is sandy and porous and readily absorbs water, except

where the earth is tramped and packed hard by the cattle. One

peculiarity of the country as found marked upon the maps, and

that exists in fact, is the diminution and often complete

disappearance of a stream after it leaves the mountains.  If not

wholly lost upon entering the valley the water soon sinks out of

sight in the sand and disappears and reappears at irregular

intervals, until it loses itself entirely in some underground

channel and is seen no more.

 

Many a pleasant valley in the range country is made desolate by

being destitute of any surface spring or running brook, or water

that can be found at any depth.  Occasionally a hidden fountain

is struck by digging, but it is only by the merest chance.  Wells

have been dug to great depths in perfectly dry ground in an eager

search for water without finding it, and such an experience is

usually equivalent to a failure and the making of a useless bill

of expense.

 

A never-failing spring of good water in sufficient quantity to

supply the needs of a ranch in the range country is of rare

occurrence, considering the large territory to be supplied.  Only

here and there at long intervals is such a spring found, and it

is always a desirable and valuable property.  It makes an oasis

in the desert that is an agreeable change from the surrounding

barrenness, and furnishes its owner, if properly utilized, a

comfortable subsistence for himself and herds.  His fields

produce without fail and the increase of his flocks and herds is

sure.

 

The isolated rancher who is well located is independent.  He is

in no danger of being crowded by his neighbors nor his range

becoming over stocked with stray cattle.  His water right gives

him undisputed control of the adjacent range, even though he does

not own all the land, which is an unwritten law of the range and

respected by all cattlemen.

 

Because of the scarcity of water the range country is sparsely

settled and always will be until more water is provided by

artificial means for irrigation.  Even then a large portion of

the land will be worthless for any other purpose than grazing,

and stock-growing on the open range in Arizona will continue to

be a staple industry in the future as it has been in the past.

 

The range is practically all occupied and, in many places, is

already over stocked.  Where more cattle are run on a range than

its grass and water can support there is bound to be some loss.

In stocking a range an estimate should be made of its carrying

capacity in a bad year rather than in a good one, as no range can

safely carry more cattle than it can support in the poorest year;

like a chain, it is no stronger than its weakest link.

 

A good range is sometimes destroyed by the prairie dog.  Wherever

he establishes a colony the grass soon disappears.  He burrows in

the ground and a group of such holes is called a dog town.  Like

the jack-rabbit he can live without water and is thus able to

keep his hold on the desert.  The only way to get rid of him is

to kill him, which is usually done by the wholesale with poison.

His flesh is fine eating, which the Navajo knows if the white man

does not.  The Navajo considers him a dainty morsel which is

particularly relished by the sick.  If a patient can afford the

price, he can usually procure a prairie dog in exchange for two

sheep.

 

The Navajo is an adept at capturing this little animal.  The

hunter places a small looking-glass near the hole and, in

concealment near by, he patiently awaits developments.

When the prairie dog comes out of his hole to take an airing

he immediately sees his reflection in the glass and takes it

 

 

 

for an intruder. In an instant he is ready for a fight and

pounces upon his supposed enemy to kill or drive him away.

While the prairie dog is thus engaged wrestling with his

shadow or reflection the hunter shoots him at close range with

his bow and arrow--never with a gun, for if wounded by a

bullet he is sure to drop into his hole and is lost, but the

arrow transfixes his body and prevents him from getting away.

He has been hunted so much in the Navajo country that he has

become very scarce.[1]

 

[1] This statement is made on the authority of Mr. F. W. Volz,

who lives at Canon Diablo, and is familiar with the customs of

the Navajos.

 

 

Much of the ranch country in southern Arizona is destitute of

trees, and shade, therefore, is scarce.   Upon the high mountains

and plateaus of northern Arizona there are great forests of pine

and plenty of shade.  But few cattle range there in comparison to

the large numbers that graze on the lower levels further south.

What little tree growth there is on the desert is stunted and

supplies but scant shade.  In the canons some large cottonwood,

sycamore and walnut trees can be found; upon the foot hills the

live oak and still higher up the mountain the pine.  Cattle

always seek the shade and if there are no trees they will lie

down in the shade of a bush or anything that casts a shadow.  The

cattle are so eager for shade that if they can find nothing

better they will crowd into the narrow ribbon of shade that is

cast by a columnar cactus or telegraph pole and seem to be

satisfied with ever so little if only shade is touched.

 

Twenty years ago before there were many cattle on the

southwestern range, the gramma grass stood knee high everywhere

all over that country and seemed to be an inexhaustible supply of

feed for an unlimited number of cattle during an indefinite term

of years.  It was not many years, however, after the large herds

were turned loose on the range until the grass was all gone and

the ground, except in a few favored spots, left nearly as bare of

grass as the traveled road.  At the present time whatever grass

there is must grow each year which, even in a favorable year, is

never heavy.  If the summer rains fail, no grass whatever can

grow and the cattle are without feed.  The grass about the

springs and water holes is first to disappear and then the cattle

must go farther and farther from water to find any grass.  When

cattle are compelled to travel over long distances in going from

grass to water, they naturally grow thin from insufficient food

and are worn out by the repeated long journeys.  A cow that is

thin and weak will postpone making the trip as long as possible--

two, three and even four days in the hottest weather she will

wait before attempting the trip.  At last, when the poor creature

reaches water, she is so famished from thirst that she drinks too

much.  In her feeble condition she is unable to carry the

enormous load of water which she drinks and lies down by the side

of the friendly water trough to die from exhaustion.

 

If cattle are turned loose upon a new range they act strange and

are inclined to scatter.  Until they become accustomed to the

change they should be close herded, but after they are once

located they are not liable to stray very far.

 

As they are only worked by men on horseback they are not

frightened at the sight of a horse and rider; but let a stranger

approach them on foot, in a moment after he is sighted every head

is raised in surprise and alarm and the pedestrian is, indeed,

fortunate if the herd turns tail and scampers off instead of

running him down and tramping him under foot in a wild stampede.

 

Nowhere else can be found a finer sight than is witnessed in the

range country.  In every direction broad meadows stretch away to

the horizon where numberless cattle roam and are the embodiment

of bovine happiness and contentment.  Scattered about in

irregular groups they are seen at ease lying down or feeding, and

frisking about in an overflow of exuberant life.  Cow paths or

trails converge from every point of the compass, that lead to

springs and water holes, on which the cattle travel.

 

It is an interesting sight to watch the cattle maneuver as they

form in line, single file, ready for the march.  They move

forward in an easy, deliberate walk one behind the other and may

be seen coming and going in every direction.  They make their

trips with great regularity back and forth from grass to water,

and vice versa, going to water in the morning and back to the

feeding grounds at night.

 

Cows have a curious fashion, sometimes, of hiding out their

calves.  When a cow with a young calf starts for water she

invariably hides her calf in a bunch of grass or clump of bushes

in some secluded spot, where it lies down and remains perfectly

quiet until the mother returns.   I have many times while riding

the range found calves thus secreted that could scarcely be

aroused or frightened away, which behavior was so different from

their usual habit of being shy and running off at the slightest

provocation.  The calf under such circumstances seems to

understand that it is "not at home," and cannot be seen.

 

At another time a lot of calves are left in charge of a young cow

or heifer that seems to understand her responsibility and guards

her charge carefully.  The young calves are too weak to make the

long trip to water and thus, through the maternal instinct of the

mother cow, she provides for the care of her offspring almost as

if she were human.

 

After viewing such a large pasture as the open range presents,

which is limitless in extent, the small fenced field or pasture

lot of a few acres on the old home farm back east, that looked so

large to boyish eyes in years gone by, dwindles by comparison

into insignificance and can never again be restored to its former

greatness.

 

 

 

CHAPTER IV

RANCH LIFE

 

Ranch life on the open range may be somewhat wild and lonely, but

it is as free and independent to the rancher as it is to his

unfettered cattle that roam at will over a thousand hills.  As a

place of residence for a family of women and children it is

undesirable because of its isolation and lack of social and

educational privileges;  but for a man who cares to "rough it" it

has a rare fascination.  Its freedom may mean lonesomeness and

its independence monotony, yet it is very enjoyable for a season.

Like anything else it may become wearing and wearisome if

continued too long without a change, but its novelty has a charm

that is irresistible.

 

Ranch life is untrammeled by social conventionalities and is not

burdened by business cares, but is an easy, natural life that is

free from all kinds of pressure.  It relieves the tension of an

artificial existence, and worry and vexation are forgotten.  Time

loses its rapid flight and once more jogs on at an easy pace; and

its complete isolation and quiet gives nature a chance to rest

and recuperate

 

       "Away from the dwellings of careworn men."

 

The environment of ranch life is highly conducive to good health.

The scenery is delightful, the air pure and bracing, the food

wholesome and nutritious, the couch comfortable and the sleep

refreshing.  Walking and riding furnish the necessary exercise

that nature demands.  Indeed, there is no better exercise to be

found than riding horseback to stimulate sluggish organs, or

excite to healthy action the bodily functions.  It stirs the

liver, causes deep breathing, strengthens the heart and

circulation, tones the nerves and makes an appetite that waits on

good digestion.  An outdoor life is often better than medicine

and is a panacea for the "ills that human flesh is heir to."

 

The ranchman, if he is in tune with his surroundings, finds a

never-failing spring of pleasure.  If he is company for himself

he is well entertained and if he is a lover of nature he finds

interesting subjects for study upon every hand.  His wants are

few and simple and the free life that he lives develops in him a

strong and sturdy manhood.  He is the picture of health and is

happy and contented as the day is long.

 

However, such a life does not suit everyone, as individual tastes

differ.  Prejudice also exerts an influence and is apt to

estimate all western life as crude and undesirable, being in a

transition state of change from savagery to civilization.  Be it

even so; for, if the savage had never existed to furnish the

ancestry that civilized man boasts, civilization would not have

been possible.  It is only natural that this should be so as, in

the order of nature, evolution begins at the bottom and works up.

 

There is perhaps no condition in life that can be called perfect,

yet of the two extremes we choose to believe that civilization is

preferable to barbarism; but an intermediate state has the

advantage over both extremes by avoiding native crudeness upon

the one hand and excessive refinement upon the other, both being

equally undesirable.

 

Happiness, which we all profess to seek, exists in some degree

everywhere but we are always striving to acquire something more.

In our constant struggle for improvement, progress undoubtedly is

made in the right direction.  With refinement comes increased

sensibility and an enlarged capacity for enjoyment.  But, such a

state in itself is not one of unalloyed bliss, as might be

supposed, since it is marred by its antithesis, an increased

amount of sickness and suffering, which is the inevitable penalty

of civilization.  In such a progression the pleasures of life

become more, but the acuteness of suffering is also increased.

The mistake lies in the fact that in our eager pursuit after the

artificial we forget nature and not until we acquire a surfeit of

that which is artificial and grow weary of the shams and deceits

of the world do we stop and think or turn again to nature to find

the truth.

 

In the early days the frontier was the rendezvous for rough and

lawless characters of every description.  That time has gone by

never to return in the history of the nation, as the rustlers

have either reformed and become good citizens or long ago left

the country by the lead or hemp routes.  The change in the times

has been such that never again will it be possible to return to

the conditions that existed in the early settlement of the west

which gave to desperadoes a safe hiding place.

 

The people now living on what is left of the frontier will, as a

class, compare favorably with those of any other community.

There may be small surface polish, as the world goes, but there

is much genuine gold of true character that needs only a little

rubbing to make it shine.

 

The population being sparse there is comparatively little

opportunity or inclination for wrongdoing.  Whatever anybody does

is noticed at once and everything that happens is immediately

found out.  The favorite haunt of vice and crime is not in a

sparsely settled community, public opinion to the contrary

notwithstanding, but in the centers of population, in, our large

cities where temptation to do evil is strong and dark deeds find

ready concealment in the mingling and confusion of the throng.

 

The ranchman deserves to be correctly judged by his true

character and not by any false standard that is artfully designed

to misrepresent him or to unjustly bring him into contempt.  He

may have a rough exterior, not intending to pose in a model

fashion plate, but in real life where he is tried there is found

under his coarse garb a heart that is honest and true which

responds with sympathy and kindness for anyone in distress; and

his generosity and hospitality are proverbial and stand without a

rival.  Men from every position in life, including college

graduates and professional men, are engaged in ranching and

whoever takes them to be a lot of toughs and ignoramuses is

egregiously mistaken.

 

The strength, virtue and intelligence of the nation is found in

its large middle class of laboring people that is largely

composed of farmers and mechanics, men who work with their hands

and live natural lives and are so busy in some useful occupation

that they have no time to think of mischief.  In this favored

land of freedom all of our great men have been of the common

people and struggled up from some humble position.  A life of

toil may seem to be hard, but it conforms to nature and natural

laws and favors the development of the best that is in man; and

he who shirks toil misses his opportunity.  Whatever tends to

wean men from work only weakens them.  Luxury and indolence

travel on the downward road of degeneracy.  They may make

pleasant temporary indulgence, but are fatal to ultimate success.

 

Locomotion on a ranch consists almost entirely of horseback

riding as walking is too slow and tiresome and wheeled conveyance

is often inconvenient or impossible for cross-country driving.

When the ranchman mounts his horse in the morning to make his

daily rounds he has a clear field before him.  He is "monarch of

all he surveys" and practically owns the earth, since his

neighbors live many miles away and his road leads in any

direction clear to the horizon.

 

The average ranch is not intended to furnish luxuries, but to

serve the best interests of the business in hand, that of growing

cattle.  It is usually a "stag camp" composed entirely of men who

occupy a rude cabin near some convenient spring or stream of

water, where they keep house in ranch style and live after a

fashion.  No money is ever expended in unnecessary improvements,

but every dollar spent in repairs is put where it will do the

most good.  The house furnishings are all of the plainest kind

and intended to meet only present necessities.  The larder is not

supplied with luxuries nor is the cuisine prolific of dainties,

but there is always on hand a supply of the necessaries of life.

 

Every man has his particular work to perform, but unless it be on

some large ranch where the force of men employed is sufficiently

large to require the services of a chef, he is also expected to

assist in keeping house.   It is an unwritten law of the ranch

that everybody on the place must share in this work and if anyone

shirks his duty he must either promptly mend his ways or else

quit his job.  It is seldom, however, that this rule has to be

enforced, as the necessities of the case require that every man

shall be able to prepare a meal as he is liable to be left alone

for days or weeks at a time when he must either cook or starve.

 

The equipment of the cowboy is his horse and reata.  They are his

constant companions and serve his every purpose.  His work

includes much hard riding, which he greatly enjoys if no accident

befalls him.  But dashing on in heedless speed while rounding up

cattle he is ever liable to mishaps, as his horse, although sure

footed, may at any time step into a prairie dogs' hole or stumble

on a loose rock that is liable to throw both horse and rider to

the ground in a heap.  He is, indeed, fortunate if he escapes

unhurt, or only receives a few bruises and not a fractured bone

or broken neck.

 

His work consists in riding over the range and marking the

condition of the cattle; line riding to prevent the stock from

straying; looking after the springs and water holes and keeping

them clean; branding calves, gathering steers for market and

assisting in the general work of the round-up.  Every day has its

duty and every season its particular work, yet there are times of

considerable leisure during the year.  After his day's work is

done he repairs to the ranch house, or to some outlying camp,

whichever happens to be nearest when night overtakes him, for

every large ranch has one or more such camps posted at some

convenient point that furnishes temporary shelter and

refreshment, where he rests and eats his frugal meal with a

relish that only health and rough riding can give.

 

If he is at the home ranch in winter he spends the long evenings

before an open hearth fire of blazing logs and by the light of

the fire and the doubtful aid of a tallow dip lounges the hours

away in reading and cogitation; or, if in the company of

congenial companions, engages in conversation and pleasantry or

any amusement that the party may select.  At an early hour he

turns in for the night and after a sound and refreshing sleep is

up and out with the dawn.  After breakfast he mounts his horse

and in his striking and characteristic costume of broad sombrero,

blue flannel shirt, fringed chaperejos and jingling spurs he

rides forth to his work a perfect type of the gallant caballero.

 

 

 

CHAPTER V

THE ROUND-UP

 

In the range cattle business it is important for every owner of

live stock to have some mark by which he can tell his own cattle.

It is impossible for any man to remember and recognize by natural

marks every animal in a large herd.  On the open range there are

no fenced pastures to hold the cattle, but all are permitted to

run free and mix promiscuously.  To distinguish the cattle of

different owners a system of earmarks and brands has been devised

by which each ranchman can identify and claim his own stock.

 

The branding is usually done during a round-up when every calf

found is caught and branded in the brand of its mother.  If a

calf remains unbranded until after it is weaned and quits its

mother, it becomes a maverick and is liable to be lost to its

owner.  A calf, if left to itself, will follow its mother for

several months and then leave her to seek its own living.

Occasionally a calf does not become weaned when it should be, but

continues the baby habit indefinitely.  If a yearling is found

unweaned it is caught and "blabbed" which is done by fitting a

peculiarly shaped piece of wood into its nose that prevents it

from sucking but does not interfere with feeding.

 

If a calf loses its mother while very young it is called a

"leppy."  Such an orphan calf is, indeed, a forlorn and forsaken

little creature.  Having no one to care for it, it has a hard

time to make a living.  If it is smart enough to share the lacteal

ration of some more fortunate calf it does very well, but if it

cannot do so and has to depend entirely on grazing for a living

its life becomes precarious and is apt to be sacrificed in the

"struggle for the survival of the fittest."

 

If it survives the ordeal and lives it bears the same relation to

the herd as the maverick and has no lawful owner until it is

branded.  If an unbranded calf has left or lost its mother it has

lost its identity as well and finds it again only after being

branded, although it may have swapped owners in the process.

Theoretically, a maverick belongs to the owner of the range on

which it runs, but, practically, it becomes the property of the

man who first finds and brands it.

 

Although the branding is supposed to be done only during a

round-up there is nevertheless some branding done in every month

of the year.  The ranchman is compelled to do so to save his

calves from being stolen.  Therefore early branding is generally

practiced as it has been found to be the best safeguard against

theft.  Either the spring or fall is considered a good time to

brand, but the only best time to brand a calf is when you find

it.

 

Dishonest men are found in the cattle business the same as in

other occupations and every year a large number of cattle are

misappropriated and stolen from the range.   Cattle have been

stolen by the wholesale and large herds run off and illegally

sold before the owner discovered his loss.  Calf stealing,

however, happens more frequently than the stealing of grown

cattle and many ingenious devices have been invented to make such

stealing a success.  A common practice is to "sleeper" a calf by

a partial earmark and a shallow brand that only singes the hair

but does not burn deep enough to leave a permanent scar.  If the

calf is not discovered as an imperfect or irregular brand and

becomes a maverick, it is kept under surveillance by the thief

until he considers it safe to finish the job when he catches it

again and brands it with his own iron.

 

Different methods are employed to win a calf and fit it for

unlawful branding.  Sometimes the calf is caught and staked out

in some secluded spot where it is not liable to be found and away

from its mother until it is nearly starved when it is branded by

the thief and turned loose; or, the calf's tongue is split so

that it cannot suck and by the time that the wounded tongue has

healed the calf has lost its mother, and the thief brands it for

himself.  Again, the mother cow is shot and killed, when the

orphan calf is branded in perfect safety as "the dead tell no

tales."

 

The owner of cattle on the open range must be constantly on his

guard against losses by theft.  Usually the thief is a dishonest

neighbor or one of his own cowboys who becomes thrifty at his

employer's expense.  Many a herd of cattle was begun without a

single cow, but was started by branding surreptitiously other

people's property.  It is not an easy matter to detect such a

thief or to convict on evidence when he is arrested and brought

to trial.  A cattle thief seldom works alone, but associates

himself with others of his kind who will perjure themselves to

swear each other clear.

 

The cow ponies that are used in range work are small but active

and possessed of great power of endurance.  They are the

descendants of the horses that were brought into Mexico by the

Spaniards, some of which escaped into the wilderness and their

increase became the wild horses of the plains.  They are known by

the various names of mustang, bronco and cayuse according to the

local vernacular of the country in which they roam.  They are

wild and hard to conquer and are sometimes never fully broken

even under the severest treatment.  Bucking and pitching are

their peculiar tricks for throwing a rider and such an experience

invariably ends in discomfort if not discomfiture, for if the

rider is not unhorsed he at least receives a severe shaking up

in the saddle.

 

The native cattle, like the horses, are small and wild, but are

hardy and make good rustlers.  The native stock has been greatly

improved in recent years by cross breeding with thoroughbred

Durham and Hereford bulls.  Grade cattle are better suited for

the open range than are pure bred animals, which are more tender

and fare better in fenced pastures.  By cross breeding the

quality of range cattle has steadily improved until the scrub

element has been almost bred out.

 

As a breeding ground Arizona is unsurpassed, but for maturing

beef cattle the northern country is preferable.  Thousands of

young cattle are shipped out annually to stock the ranges of

Wyoming and Montana and to fill the feed lots of Kansas, Missouri

and other feeding states.  A dash of native blood in range cattle

is desirable as it enables them to endure hardships without

injury and find subsistence in seasons of drought and scant

forage.

 

The general round-up occurs in the fall, just after the summer

rains, when there is plenty of grass and the horses and cattle

are in good condition.  The ranchmen of a neighborhood meet at an

appointed time and place and organize for systematic work.  A

captain is chosen who is in command of the round-up and must be

obeyed.  Each cowboy has his own string of horses, but all of the

horses of the round-up not in use are turned out to graze and

herd together.  A mess wagon and team of horses in charge of a

driver, who is also the cook, hauls the outfit of pots,

provisions and bedding.

 

 The round-up moves from ranch to ranch rounding up and marking

the cattle as it goes and is out from four to six weeks,

according to the number of ranches that are included in the

circuit.

 

When camp is made and everything ready for work the cowboys ride

out in different directions and drive in all the cattle they can

find.  After the cattle are all gathered the calves are branded

and the cattle of the several owners are cut into separate herds

and held until the round-up is finished when they are driven

home.

 

Every unbranded calf is caught and branded in its mother's brand.

In a mix-up of cattle as occurs at a round-up, a calf sometimes

gets separated from its mother so that when caught its identity

is uncertain.  To avoid making a mistake the calf is only

slightly marked, just enough to hurt it a little, and is then

turned loose.  A calf when it is hurt is very much like a child,

in that it cries and wants its mamma.  As quick as it is let go

it immediately hunts its mother and never fails to find her.

When cow and calf have come together the calf is again caught and

the branding finished.

 

The pain produced by the hot branding iron makes the calf bawl

lustily and struggle to free itself.  The mother cow sometimes

resents the punishment of her offspring by charging and chasing

the men who are doing the branding; or, if she is of a less fiery

disposition, shows her displeasure by a look of reproach as much

as to say, "You bad men, what have you done to hurt my little

darling?"

 

A peculiarity of brands is that they do not all grow alike.

Sometimes a brand, after it is healed, remains unchanged during

the life of the animal.  At other times it enlarges to several

times its original size.  Various reasons are assigned to account

for this difference.  Some claim that the brand only grows with

the calf; others assert that it is due to deep branding; and,

again, it is ascribed to lunar influence.  But, as to the real

cause of the difference, no explanation has been given that

really explains the phenomenon.

 

The cowboy's work is nearly all done in the saddle and calls for

much hard riding.  He rides like a Centaur, but is clumsy on his

feet.  Being so much in the saddle his walking muscles become

weakened, and his legs pressing against the body of his horse, in

time, makes him bowlegged.  In addition he wears high-heeled

Mexican boots which throw him on his toes when he walks and makes

his already shambling gait even more awkward.

 

A cowboy's life has little in it to inspire him with high ideals

or arouse his ambition to achieve greatness.  He leads a hard

life among rough men and receives only coarse fare and rougher

treatment.   His life is narrow and he works in a rut that

prevents him from taking a broad view of life.  All that he has

is his monthly wages, and, possibly, a hope that at some future

day he may have a herd of cattle of his own.

 

Managing a herd of range cattle successfully is an art that can

only be acquired by long practice, and it is surprising how

expert men can become at that business.  All the work done among

cattle is on horseback, which includes herding, driving, cutting

and roping.  The trained cow pony seemingly knows as much about a

round-up as his master, and the two, together, form a combination

that is invincible in a herd of wild cattle.  The cow or steer

that is selected to be roped or cut out rarely escapes.  While

the horse is in hot pursuit the rider dexterously whirls his

reata above his head until, at a favorable moment, it leaves his

hand, uncoiling as it flies through the air, and, if the throw is

successful, the noose falls over the animal's head.  Suddenly the

horse comes to a full stop and braces himself for the shock.

When the animal caught reaches the end of the rope it is brought

to an abrupt halt and tumbled in a heap on the ground.  The horse

stands braced pulling on the rope which has been made fast to the

horn of the saddle by a few skillful turns.  The cowboy is out of

the saddle and on his feet in a jiffy.  He grasps the prostrate

animal by the tail and a hind leg, throws it on its side, and

ties its four feet together, so that it is helpless and ready for

branding or inspection.  The cowboys have tying contests in which

a steer is sometimes caught and tied in less time than a minute.

 

It is a comical sight to see an unhorsed cowboy chase his runaway

horse on foot as he is almost sure to do if caught in such a

predicament.  He ought to know that he cannot outrun his fleet

steed in such a race, but seems to be impelled by some strange

impulse to make the attempt.  After he has run himself out of

breath he is liable to realize the folly of his zeal and adopt a

more sensible method for capturing his horse.

 

The cowboy who works on the southwestern range has good cause to

fear the malodorous hydrophobia skunk.  At a round-up all of the

cowboys sleep on the ground.  During the night, while they are

asleep, the little black and white cat-like animal forages

through the camp for something to eat.  Without provocation the

skunk will attack the sleeper and fasten its sharp teeth in some

exposed portion of his anatomy, either the nose or a finger or

toe and will not let go until it is killed or forcibly removed.

The wound thus made usually heals quickly and the incident is,

perhaps, soon forgotten; but after several weeks or months

hydrophobia suddenly develops and proves fatal in a short time.

 

The only known cure for the bite of the skunk is the Pasteur

treatment and, since its discovery, as soon as anyone is bitten,

he is immediately sent to the Pasteur Institute in Chicago for

treatment.

 

 

 

CHAPTER VI

RANCH HAPPENINGS

 

Ranch life is often full of thrilling incidents and adventures.

The cowboy in his travels about the country looking after cattle,

hunting wild game or, in turn, being hunted by yet wilder

Indians, finds plenty of novelty and excitement to break any

fancied monotony which might be considered as belonging to ranch

life.  In a number of visits to the range country during the past

twenty years, the writer has had an opportunity to observe life

on a ranch, and experience some of its exciting adventures.

 

One day in the summer of 1891, Dave Drew, our foreman, Tedrow,

one of the cowboys, and myself, made a trip into East Canon in

the Dos Cabezas mountains, in search of some large unbranded

calves which had been seen running there.  We rode leisurely

along for some time and passed several small bunches of cattle

without finding what we were looking for.  As we neared a bend in

the canon, Dave, who rode in advance, saw some cattle lying in

the shade of a grove of live oak trees.  Instantly he spurred his

horse into a run and chased after the cattle at full speed, at

the same time looking back and shouting that he saw two mavericks

and for us to hurry up and help catch them.  It was a bad piece

of ground to cover and we found it difficult to make progress or

to even keep each other in sight.  Tedrow hurried up as fast as

he could while I brought up the rear.

 

In trying to get through in the direction that Dave had gone, we

tried to make a short cut in order to gain time, but soon found

our way completely blocked by immense boulders and dense thickets

of cat-claw bushes, which is a variety of mesquite covered with

strong, sharp, curved thorns.  We turned back to find a better

road and after some time spent in hunting an opening we

discovered a dim trail which soon led us into a natural park of

level ground hidden among the foothills.  Here we found Dave who

alone had caught and tied down both the calves and was preparing

to start a fire to heat the branding irons.  What he had done

seemed like magic and was entirely incomprehensible to an

inexperienced tenderfoot.

 

Dave explained afterwards that to be successful in such a race

much depended on taking the cattle by surprise, and then by a

quick, bold dash start them running up the mountain, when it was

possible to overtake and rope them; but if once started to

running down hill it was not only unsafe to follow on horseback

but in any event the cattle were certain to escape.  Taking them

by surprise seemed to bewilder them and before they could collect

their scattered senses, so to speak, and scamper off, the work of

capture was done.

 

Another adventure, which did not end so fortunately for met

happened in the fall of I 887 when the country was yet

comparatively new to the cattle business.  I rode out one day in

company with a cowboy to look after strays and, incidentally, to

watch for any game that might chance to cross our path.  We rode

through seemingly endless meadows of fine gramma grass and saw

the sleek cattle feeding on plenty and enjoying perfect

contentment.  Game, also, seemed to be abundant but very shy and

as we were not particularly hunting that kind of stock, we

forebore giving chase or firing at long range.

 

After riding about among the hills back of the Pinaleno ranch and

not finding anything we concluded to return home.  On starting

back we separated and took different routes, going by two

parallel ravines in order to cover more ground in our search.  I

had not gone far until I found the cattle we were looking for

going to water on the home trail.  Jogging on slowly after them

and enjoying the beauty of the landscape, I unexpectedly caught a

glimpse of a deer lying down under a mesquite tree on the brow of

a distant hill.  I was in plain sight of the deer, which was

either asleep or heedless of danger as it paid no attention

whatever to my presence.

 

Deer and antelope soon become accustomed to horses and cattle and

often mix and feed familiarly with the stock grazing on the open

range.  The deer did not change its position as I quietly rode by

and out of sight behind the hill.  There I dismounted and stalked

the quarry on foot, cautiously making my way up the side of the

hill to a point where I would be within easy shooting distance.

As I stood up to locate the deer it jumped to its feet and was

ready to make off, but before it could start a shot from my

Winchester put a bullet through its head, and it scarcely moved

after it fell.  The deer was in good condition and replenished

our depleted ranch larder with some choice venison steaks.  The

head, also, was a fine one the horns being just out of velvet and

each antler five pointed, was saved and mounted.

 

The shot and my lusty halloo soon brought my cowboy friend to the

spot.  Together we eviscerated the animal and prepared to pack it

to camp on my horse.  As we were lifting it upon his back the

bronco gave a vicious kick which hit me in the left knee and

knocked me down.  The blow, though severe, glanced off so that no

bone was broken.  What made the horse kick was a mystery as he

was considered safe and had carried deer on other occasions.  But

a bronco, like a mule, is never altogether reliable, particularly

as to the action of its heels.  With some delay in getting

started and in somewhat of a demoralized condition we mounted and

rode home.

 

Soon after the accident I had a chill which was followed by a

fever and there was much pain and swelling in the knee that was

hit.  A ranch house, if it happens to be a "stag camp" as ours

was, is a cheerless place in which to be sick, but everything

considered, I was fortunate in that it was not worse.  By the

liberal use of hot water and such other simples as the place

afforded I was soon better; but not until after several months'

treatment at home did the injured knee fully recover its normal

condition.

 

The excitement of running cattle or hunting game on the open

range in those days was mild in comparison to the panicky feeling

which prevailed during every Indian outbreak.  The experience of

many years had taught the people of Arizona what to expect at

such a time and the utter diabolical wickedness of the Apaches

when out on the warpath.  During the early eighties many such

raids occurred which were accompanied by all the usual horrors of

brutality and outrage of which the Apaches are capable.

 

When it became known in the fall of 1885 that Geronimo was again

off the reservation and out on another one of his bloody raids

the people became panic-stricken.  Some left the Territory until

such time when the Indian question would be settled and the

Government could guarantee freedom from Indian depredations.

Those who remained either fled to some near town or fort for

protection, or prepared to defend themselves in their own homes

as best they could.

 

What else could the settlers in a new country do?  They had

everything invested in either mines or cattle and could not

afford to leave their property without making some effort to save

it even if it had to be done at the risk of their own lives.

They had no means of knowing when or where the stealthy Apaches

would strike and could only wait for the time in uncertainty and

suspense.  Many who were in this uncomfortable predicament

managed to escape any harm, but others fell victims to savage

hatred whose death knell was sounded in the crack of the deadly

rifle.

 

Some personal experiences may help to illustrate this feeling of

panic, as I happened to be at the ranch during the time and know

how it was myself.

 

One day in the month of October, 1885, while Geronimo was making

his raid through southern Arizona, my brother and I rode through

Railroad Pass from Pinaleno ranch to the Lorentz Place, a

distance of fifteen miles.   It was about four o'clock in the

afternoon that we ascended to the top of a hill to take

observations and see if anything was happening out of the

ordinary.  We saw nothing unusual until we were about to leave

when we noticed somewhat of a commotion on the old Willcox and

Bowie wagon road which parallels the Southern Pacific track.  The

distance was too great to see distinctly with the naked eye, but

looking through our field glasses, which we always carried when

out riding, we could plainly see three loaded wagons standing in

the road.  The drivers had evidently unhitched their teams and,

mounted upon the horses' backs, were riding furiously in a cloud

of dust down the road towards Bowie.

 

I asked the judge, who was a resident and supposed to be familiar

with the customs of the country while I was only a tenderfoot,

what their actions meant.  He admitted that he did not understand

their conduct unless it was that they had concluded that they

could not make Willcox on that day and were returning to some

favorable camp ground which they had passed on their way up, to

spend the night; but the manner of their going was certainly

peculiar.  After watching them disappear down the road we rode on

and reached our destination in safety.

 

The incident was forgotten until a few days later when we were in

Willcox a friend inquired what had become of the Indians which

had lately been seen on our range.  We replied that we had not

seen any Indians nor known of any that had been there.  He then

related to us how only a few days before three freighters had

seen two Indians ride upon a hill and halt.  The sight of Indians

was enough and their only  care after that was to get away from

them.  They quickly unhitched their horses from the wagons and

rode ten miles to Bowie where they gave the alarm and spent the

night.  The next morning, having heard nothing more from the

Indians during the night, they took fresh courage and ventured to

return to their wagons, which they found as they had left them

unmolested, when they continued their journey.

  When the freighters were asked why they did not stand off the

Indians they said that they only had one gun and not knowing how

many more redskins there might be decided that to retreat was the

better part of valor.  It was my brother and I whom they had seen

and mistaken for Indians.

 

A few days after this event I had a similar scare of my own and

after it was over I could sympathize with the poor, frightened

freighters.  I was alone at the ranch house packing up and

preparing to leave for home.  While thus occupied I chanced to go

to the open door and looking out, to my dismay, I saw Indians.

"My heart jumped into my mouth" and for a moment I felt that my

time had surely come.  Two men were seen riding horseback over

the foot hills followed by a pack animal.  As I stood watching

them and took time to think, it occurred to me that I might be

mistaken, and that the men were not Indians after all.  As they

drew nearer I saw that they were dressed like white men and,

therefore, could not be Indians; but my scare while it lasted was

painfully real.  The men proved to be two neighboring ranchmen

who were out looking for lost cattle.

 

In this raid, the Apaches, after leaving their reservation in the

White mountains, traveled south along the Arizona and New Mexico

line, killing people as they went, until they reached Stein's

Pass.  From there they turned west, crossed the San Simon valley

and disappeared in the Chiricahua mountains.  When next seen they

had crossed over the mountains and attacked Riggs' ranch in

Pinery canon, where they wounded a woman, but were driven off.

 

The next place that they visited was the Sulphur Spring ranch of

the Chiricahua Cattle Company, where they stole a bunch of

horses.  The cowboys at the ranch had received warning that there

were Indians about and had brought in the horse herd from the

range and locked them in the corral.  The Apaches came in the

night and with their usual adroitness and cunning stole the

corral empty.  The first intimation which the inmates had that

the ranch had been robbed was when the cowboys went in the

morning to get their horses they found them gone.

 

From the Sulphur Spring ranch they crossed the Sulphur Spring

valley in the direction of Cochise's stronghold in the Dragoon

mountains.  Before reaching the mountains they passed Mike

Noonan's ranch where they shot its owner, who was a lone rancher

and had lived alone in the valley many years.  He was found dead

in his door yard with a bullet hole in the back of his head.  He

evidently did not know that the Indians were near and was

seemingly unconscious of any danger when he was killed.

 

The Indians were not seen again after entering the stronghold

until they crossed the line into Mexico, where they were pursued

by United States soldiers.  After a long, stern chase Geronimo

surrendered himself and followers to General Miles, who brought

them back to Arizona.  As prisoners they were all loaded into

cars at Bowie and taken to Florida.  The general in command

thought it best to take them clear out of the country in order to

put an effectual stop to their marauding.  Later they were

removed to the Indian Territory where they now live.

 

The rest of the Apaches remain in Arizona and live on the San

Carlos reservation on the Gila river where they are being

inducted into civilization.  Since the disturbing element among

them has been removed there has been no more trouble.  They seem

to have settled down with a sincere purpose to learn the white

man's way and are quiet and peaceable.  They are laborers,

farmers and stockmen and are making rapid progress in their new

life.

 

 

 

CHAPTER VII

A MODEL RANCH

 

Any one who has been in Arizona and failed to visit the Sierra

Bonita ranch missed seeing a model ranch.  Henry C. Hooker, the

owner of this splendid property, was born in New England and is a

typical Yankee, who early emigrated west and has spent most of

his life on the frontier.

 

He went to Arizona at the close of the Civil War and engaged in

contracting for the Government and furnishing supplies to the

army.  It was before the days of railroads when all merchandise

was hauled overland in wagons and cattle were driven through on

foot.  He outfitted at points in Texas and on the Rio Grande and

drove his cattle and wagons over hundreds of miles of desert

road through a country that was infested by hostile Indians.

 

Such a wild life was naturally full of adventures and involved

much hardship and danger.  The venture, however, prospered and

proved a financial success, notwithstanding some losses in men

killed, wagons pillaged and cattle driven off and lost by bands

of marauding Apaches.

 

In his travels he saw the advantages that Arizona offered as a

grazing country, which decided him to locate a ranch and engage

in the range cattle business.

 

The ranch derives its name from the Graham or Pinaleno mountains

which the Indians called the Sierra Bonita because of the many

beautiful wild flowers that grow there.  It is twenty miles north

of Willcox, a thriving village on the Southern Pacific Railroad,

and ten miles south of Ft. Grant, that nestles in a grove of

cotton trees at the foot of Mt. Graham, the noblest mountain in

southern Arizona.

 

The Sierra Bonita ranch is situated in the famous Sulphur Spring

valley in Cochise County, Arizona, which is, perhaps, the only

all grass valley in the Territory.  The valley is about twenty

miles wide and more than one hundred miles long and extends into

Mexico.  Its waters drain in opposite directions, part flowing

south into the Yaqui river, and part running north through the

Aravaipa Canon into the Gila and Colorado rivers, all to meet and

mingle again in the Gulf of California.

 

Fine gramma grass covers the entire valley and an underground

river furnishes an inexhaustible supply of good water.  In the

early days of overland travel before the country was protected or

any of its resources were known, immigrants, who were bound for

California by the Southern route and ignorant of the near

presence of water, nearly perished from thirst while crossing the

valley.

 

The water rises to within a few feet of the surface and, since

its discovery, numerous wells have been dug and windmills and

ranch houses dot the landscape in all directions; while thousands

of cattle feed and fatten on the nutritious gramma grass.  Its

altitude is about four thousand feet above the sea and the

climate is exceptionally fine.

 

The Sierra Bonita ranch is located on a natural cienega of moist

land that has been considerably enlarged by artificial means.  In

an average year the natural water supply of the ranch is

sufficient for all purposes but, to guard against any possible

shortage in a dry year, water is brought from the mountains in

ditches that have been constructed at great labor and expense and

is stored in reservoirs, to be used as needed for watering the

cattle and irrigating the fields.  The effect of water upon the

desert soil is almost magical and even though the rains fail and

the earth be parched, on the moist land of the cienega the fields

of waving grass and grain are perennially green.

 

The owner has acquired by location and purchase, title to several

thousand acres of land, that is all fenced and much of it highly

cultivated.  It consists of a strip of land one mile wide and ten

miles long, which is doubly valuable because of its

productiveness and as the key that controls a fine open range.

 

The original herd of cattle that pastured on the Sierra Bonita

ranch thirty years ago was composed of native scrub stock from

Texas and Sonora.  This undesirable stock was sold at the first

opportunity, and the range re-stocked by an improved grade of

Durham cattle.  The change was a long stride in the direction of

improvement, but, later on, another change was made to Herefords,

and during recent years only whitefaces have been bred upon the

ranch.

 

Col. Hooker has a strong personality, holds decided opinions and

believes in progress and improvement.  He has spent much time and

money in experimental work, and his success has demonstrated the

wisdom of his course.  Just such men are needed in every new

country to develop its resources and prove its worth.

 

He saw that the primitive methods of ranching then in vogue must

be improved, and began to prepare for the change which was

coming.  What he predicted came to pass, and the days of large

herds on the open range are numbered.

 

Many of them have already been sold or divided up, and it is a

question Of only a short time when the rest will meet the same

fate.

 

When this is done there may be no fewer cattle than there are now

but they will be bunched in smaller herds and better cared for.

Scrubs of any kind are always undesirable, since it has been

proved that quality is more profitable than quantity.  A small

herd is more easily handled, and there is less danger of loss

from straying or stealing.

 

The common method of running cattle on the open range is reckless

and wasteful in the extreme and entirely inexcusable.  The cattle

are simply turned loose to rustle for themselves.  No provision

whatever is made for their welfare, except that they are given

the freedom of the range to find water, if they can, and grass

that often affords them only scant picking.

 

Under the new regime the cattle are carefully fed and watered, if

need be in a fenced enclosure, that not only gives the cattle

humane treatment but also makes money for the owner.  The men are

instructed to bring in every sick or weak animal found on the

range and put it into a corral or pasture, where it is nursed

back to life.  If an orphan calf is found that is in danger of

starving it is picked up, carried home and fed.  On the average

ranch foundlings and weaklings get no attention whatever, but are

left in their misery to pine away and perish from neglect.  The

profit of caring for the weak and sick animals on the Sierra

Bonita ranch amounts to a large sum every year, which the owner

thinks is worth saving.

 

Another peculiarity of ranch life is that where there are

hundreds or, perhaps, thousands of cows in a herd, not a single

cow is milked, nor is a cup of milk or pound of butter ever seen

upon the ranch table.  It is altogether different on Hooker's

ranch.  There is a separate herd of milch cows in charge of a man

whose duty it is to keep the table supplied with plenty of fresh

milk and butter.  No milk ever goes to waste.  If there is a

surplus it is fed to the calves, pigs and poultry.

 

During the branding season the work of the round-up is all done

in corrals instead of, as formerly, out upon the open range.

Each calf after it is branded, if it is old and strong enough to

wean, is taken from the cow and turned into a separate pasture.

It prevents the weak mother cow from being dragged to death by a

strong sucking calf and saves the pampered calf from dying of

blackleg by a timely change of diet.

 

Instead of classing the cattle out on the open range as is the

usual custom, by an original system of corrals, gates and chutes

the cattle are much more easily and quickly classified without

any cruelty or injury inflicted upon either man or beast.

Classing cattle at a round-up by the old method is a hard and

often cruel process, that requires a small army of both men and

horses and is always rough and severe on the men, horses and

cattle.

 

Besides the herds of sleek cattle, there are also horses galore,

enough to do all of the work on the ranch as well as for pleasure

riding and driving.  There is likewise a kennel of fine

greyhounds that are the Colonel's special pride.  His cattle,

horses and dogs are all of the best, as he believes in

thoroughbreds and has no use whatever for scrubs of either the

human or brute kind.

 

The dogs are fond of their master and lavish their caresses on

him with almost human affection.  In the morning when they meet

him at the door Ketchum pokes his nose into one of his master's

half open hands and Killum performs the same act with the other

hand.  Blackie nips him playfully on the leg while Dash and the

rest of the pack race about like mad, trying to express the

exuberance of their joy.

 

In the bunch is little Bob, the fox terrier, who tries hard but

is not always able to keep up with the hounds in a race.  He is

active and gets over the ground lively for a small dog, but in a

long chase is completely distanced and outclassed to his apparent

disgust.  Aside from the fine sport that the dogs afford, they

are useful in keeping the place clear of all kinds of "varmints"

such as coyotes, skunks and wild cats.

 

How much Col. Hooker appreciates his dogs is best illustrated by

an incident.  One morning after greeting the dogs at the door, he

was heard to remark sotto voce.

 

"Well, if everybody on the ranch is cross, my dogs always greet

me with a smile."

 

There appears to be much in the dog as well as in the horse that

is human, and the trio are capable of forming attachments for

each other that only death can part.

 

The ranch house is a one-story adobe structure built in the

Spanish style of a rectangle, with all the doors opening upon a

central court.  It is large and commodious, is elegantly

furnished and supplied with every modern convenience.  It affords

every needed comfort for a family and is in striking contrast

with the common ranch house of the range that is minus every

luxury and often barely furnishes the necessaries of life.

 

 

 

CHAPTER VIII

SOME DESERT PLANTS

 

Much of the vegetation that is indigenous to the southwest is

unique and can only be seen at its best in the Gila valley in

southern Arizona.  The locality indicated is in the arid zone and

is extremely hot and dry.  Under such conditions it is but

natural to suppose that all plant life must necessarily be scant

and dwarfed, but such is not the fact.  Upon the contrary many of

the plants that are native to the soil and adapted to the climate

grow luxuriantly, are remarkably succulent and perennially green.

 

How they manage to acquire so much sap amidst the surrounding

siccity is inexplicable, unless it is that they possess the

function of absorbing and condensing moisture by an unusual and

unknown method.  It is, however, a beneficent provision of nature

as a protection against famine in a droughty land by furnishing

in an acceptable form, refreshing juice and nutritious pulp to

supply the pressing wants of hungry and thirsty man and beast in

time of need.

 

Another peculiarity of these plants is that they are acanaceous;

covered all over with sharp thorns and needles.  Spikes of all

sorts and sizes bristle everywhere and admonish the tenderfoot to

beware.  Guarded by an impenetrable armor of prickly mail they

defy encroachment and successfully repel all attempts at undue

familiarity.  To be torn by a cat-claw thorn or impaled on a

stout dagger leaf of one of these plants would not only mean

painful laceration but, perhaps, serious or even fatal injury.

Notwithstanding their formidable and forbidding appearance they

are nevertheless attractive and possess some value either

medicinal, commercial or ornamental.

 

The maguey, or American aloe, is the most abundant and widely

distributed of the native plants.  It is commonly known as

mescal, but is also called the century plant from a mistaken

notion that it blossoms only once in a hundred years.  Its

average life, under normal conditions, is about ten years and it

dies immediately after blossoming.

 

It attains its greatest perfection in the interior of Mexico

where it is extensively cultivated.  It yields a large quantity

of sap which is, by a simple process of fermentation, converted

into a liquor called pulque that tastes best while it is new and

is consumed in large quantities by the populace.  Pulque trains

are run daily from the mescal plantations, where the pulque is

made, into the large cities to supply the bibulous inhabitants

with their customary beverage.  In strength and effect it

resembles lager beer, and is the popular drink with all classes

throughout Mexico where it has been in vogue for centuries and is

esteemed as "the only drink fit for thirsty angels and men."

 

The agave is capable of being applied to many domestic uses.

Under the old dispensation of Indian supremacy it supplied the

natives their principal means of support.   Its sap was variously

prepared and served as milk, honey, vinegar, beer and brandy.

From its tough fiber were made thread, rope, cloth, shoes and

paper.  The strong flower stalk was used in building houses and

the broad leaves for covering them.

 

The heart of the maguey is saccharine and rich in nutriment.  It

is prepared by roasting it in a mescal pit and, when done, tastes

much like baked squash.  It is highly prized by the Indians, who

use it as their daily bread.  Before the Apaches were conquered

and herded on reservations a mescal bake was an important event

with them.  It meant the gathering of the clans and was made the

occasion of much feasting and festivity.  Old mescal pits can yet

be found in some of the secluded corners of the Apache country

that were once the scenes of noisy activity, but have been

forsaken and silent for many years.

 

The fiery mescal, a distilled liquor that is known to the trade

as aguardiente, or Mexican brandy, is much stronger than pulque,

but less used.  Both liquors are said to be medicinal, and are

reputed to possess diuretic, tonic and stimulant properties.

 

Next in importance to the mescal comes the yucca.  There are

several varieties, but the palm yucca is the most common, and

under favorable conditions attains to the proportions of a tree.

Fine specimens of yucca grow on the Mojave desert in California

that are large and numerous enough to form a straggling forest.

 

The tree consists of a light, spongy wood that grows as a single

stem or divides into two or more branches.  Each branch is

crowned by a tuft of long, pointed leaves that grow in concentric

circles.  As the new leaves unfold on top the old leaves are

crowded down and hang in loose folds about the stem like a

flounced skirt.  When dry the leaves burn readily, and are

sometimes used for light and heat by lost or belated travelers.

White threads of a finer fiber are detached from the margins of

the leaves that are blown by the wind into a fluffy fleece, in

which the little birds love to nest.

 

A grove of yucca trees presents a grotesque appearance.  If

indistinctly viewed in the hazy distance they are easily mistaken

for the plumed topknots of a band of prowling Apaches,

particularly if the imagination is active with the fear of an

Indian outbreak.

 

The wood of the yucca tree has a commercial value.  It is cut

into thin sheets by machinery which are used for surgeon's

splints, hygienic insoles, tree protectors and calendars.  As a

splint it answers an admirable purpose, being both light and

strong and capable of being molded into any shape desired after

it has been immersed in hot water.  Its pulp, also, makes an

excellent paper.

 

Another variety of yucca is the amole, or soap plant.  Owing to

the peculiar shape of its leaves it is also called Spanish

bayonet.  Its root is saponaceous, and is pounded into a pulp and

used instead of soap by the natives.  It grows a bunch of large

white flowers, and matures an edible fruit that resembles the

banana.  The Indians call it oosa, and eat it, either raw or

roasted in hot ashes.

 

A species of yucca called sotal, or saw-grass, grows plentifully

in places, and is sometimes used as food for cattle when grass is

scarce.  In its natural state it is inaccessible to cattle

because of its hard and thorny exterior.  To make it available it

is cut down and quartered with a hoe, when the hungry cattle eat

it with avidity.  Where the plant grows thickly one man can cut

enough in one day to feed several hundred head of cattle.

 

There are several other varieties of yucca that possess no

particular value, but all are handsome bloomers, and the mass of

white flowers which unfold during the season of efflorescence

adds much to the beauty of the landscape.

 

The prickly pear cactus, or Indian fig, of the genus Opuntia is a

common as well as a numerous family.  The soil and climate of the

southwest from Texas to California seem to be just to its liking.

It grows rank and often forms dense thickets.  The root is a

tough wood from which, it is said, the best Mexican saddletrees

are made.

 

The plant consists of an aggregation of thick, flat, oval leaves,

which are joined together by narrow bands of woody fiber and

covered with bundles of fine, sharp needles.  Its pulp is

nutritious and cattle like the young leaves, but will not eat

them after they become old and hard unless driven to do so by the

pangs of hunger.  In Texas the plant is gathered in large

quantities and ground into a fine pulp by machinery which is then

mixed with cotton-seed meal and fed to cattle.  The mixture makes

a valuable fattening ration and is used for finishing beef steers

for the market.

 

The cholla, or cane cactus, is also a species of Opuntia, but its

stem or leaf is long and round instead of short and flat. It is

thickly covered with long, fine, silvery-white needles that

glisten in the sun.  Its stem is hollow and filled with a white

pith like the elder.  After the prickly bark is stripped off the

punk can be picked out through the fenestra with a penknife,

which occupation affords pleasant pastime for a leisure hour.

When thus furbished up the unsightly club becomes an elegant

walking stick.

 

The cholla is not a pleasant companion as all persons know who

have had any experience with it.  Its needles are not only very

sharp, but also finely barbed, and they penetrate and cling fast

like a burr the moment that they are touched.  Cowboys profess to

believe that the plant has some kind of sense as they say that it

jumps and takes hold of its victim before it is touched.  This

action, however, is only true in the seeming, as its long

transparent needles, being invisible, are touched before they are

seen.  When they catch hold of a moving object, be it horse or

cowboy, an impulse is imparted to the plant that makes it seem to

jump.  It is an uncanny movement and is something more than an

ocular illusion, as the victim is ready to testify.

 

These desert plants do not ordinarily furnish forage for live

stock, but in a season of drought when other feed is scarce and

cattle are starving they will risk having their mouths pricked by

thorns in order to get something to eat and will browse on

mescal, yucca and cactus and find some nourishment in the unusual

diet, enough, at least, to keep them from dying.  The plants

mentioned are not nearly as plentiful now as they once were.

Because of the prolonged droughts that prevail in the range

country and the overstocking of the range these plants are in

danger of being exterminated and, if the conditions do not soon

change, of becoming extinct.

 

The saguaro, or giant cactus, is one of nature's rare and curious

productions.  It is a large, round, fluted column that is from

one to two feet thick and sometimes sixty feet high.  The trunk

is nearly of an even thickness from top to bottom but, if there

is any difference, it is a trifle thicker in the middle.  It

usually stands alone as a single perpendicular column, but is

also found bunched in groups.  If it has any branches they are

apt to start at right angles from about the middle of the tree

and curve upward, paralleling the trunk, which form gives it the

appearance of a mammoth candelabrum.

 

The single saguaro pillar bears a striking resemblance to a

Corinthian column.  As everything in art is an attempt to imitate

something in nature, is it possible that Grecian architecture

borrowed its notable pattern from the Gila valley?

 

Southern Arizona is the natural home and exclusive habitat of

this most singular and interesting plant and is, perhaps, the

only thing growing anywhere that could have suggested the design.

Wherever it grows, it is a conspicuous object on the landscape

and has been appropriately named "The Sentinel of the Desert."

 

Its mammoth body is supported by a skeleton of wooden ribs, which

are held in position by a mesh of tough fibers that is filled

with a green pulp.  Rows of thorns extend its entire length which

are resinous and, if ignited, burn with a bright flame.  They are

sometimes set on fire and have been used by the Apaches for

making signals.  The cactus tree, like the eastern forest tree,

is often found bored full of round, holes that are made by the

Gila woodpecker.  When the tree dies its pulp dries up and blows

away and there remains standing only a spectral figure composed

of white slats and fiber that looks ghostly in the distance.

 

Its fruit is delicious and has the flavor of the fig and

strawberry combined.  It is dislodged by the greedy birds which

feed on it and by arrows shot from bows in the hands of the

Indians.  The natives esteem the fruit as a great delicacy, and

use it both fresh and dried and in the form of a treacle or

preserve.

 

The ocotillo, or mountain cactus, is a handsome shrub that grows

in rocky soil upon the foothills and consists of a cluster of

nearly straight poles of brittle wood covered with thorns and

leaves.  It blossoms during the early summer and each branch

bears on its crest a bunch of bright crimson flowers.

 

If set in a row the plant makes an ornamental hedge and effective

fence for turning stock.  The seemingly dry sticks are thrust

into yet drier ground where they take root and grow without

water.   Its bark is resinous and a fagot of dry sticks makes a

torch that is equal to a pineknot.

 

The echinocactus, or bisnaga, is also called "The Well of the

Desert."  It has a large barrel-shaped body which is covered with

long spikes that are curved like fishhooks.  It is full of sap

that is sometimes used to quench thirst.  By cutting off the top

and scooping out a hollow, the cup-shaped hole soon fills with a

sap that is not exactly nectar but can be drunk in an emergency.

Men who have been in danger of perishing from thirst on the

desert have sometimes been saved by this unique method of well

digging.

 

Greasewood, or creasote bush as it is sometimes called on account

of its pungent odor, grows freely on the desert, but has little

or no value and cattle will not touch it.  Like many other desert

plants it is resinous and if thrown into the fire, the green

leaves spit and sputter while they burn like hot grease in a

frying pan.

 

The mesquite tree is peculiarly adapted to the desert and is the

most valuable tree that grows in the southwest.  As found growing

on the dry mesas of Arizona, it is only a small bush, but on the

moist land of a river bottom it becomes a large forest tree.  A

mesquite forest stands in the Santa Cruz valley south of Tucson

that is a fair sample of its growth under favorable conditions.

 

Its wood is hard and fine grained and polishes beautifully.  It

is very durable and is valuable for lumber, fence posts and

firewood.  On the dry mesas it seems to go mostly to root that is

out of all proportion to the size of the tree.  The amount of

firewood that is sometimes obtained by digging up the root of a

small mesquite bush is astonishing.

 

It makes a handsome and ornamental shade tree, having graceful

branches, feathery leaves and fragrant flowers, and could be

cultivated to advantage for yard and park purposes.

 

Its principal value, however, lies in its seed pods, which grow

in clusters and look like string beans.  The mesquite bean

furnishes a superior article of food and feeds about everything

that either walks or flies on the desert.  The Indians make meal

of the seed and bake it into bread.  Cattle that feed on the open

range will leave good grass to browse on a mesquite bush.  Even

as carnivorous a creature as the coyote will make a full meal on

a mess of mesquite beans and seem to be satisfied.  The tree

exudes a gum that is equal to the gum arabic of commerce.

 

The palo verde is a tree without leaves and is a true child of

the desert.  No matter how hot and dry the weather the palo verde

is always green and flourishing.  At a distance it resembles a

weeping willow tree stripped of its leaves.  Its numerous long,

slender, drooping branches gracefully criss-cross and interlace

in an intricate figure of filigree work.  It has no commercial

value, but if it could be successfully transplanted and

transported it would make a desirable addition to green-house

collections in the higher latitudes.

 

The romantic mistletoe that is world renowned for its magic

influence in love affairs, grows to perfection in southern

Arizona.  There are several varieties of this parasitic plant

that are very unlike in appearance.  Each kind partakes more or

less of the characteristics of the tree upon which it grows, but

all have the glossy leaf and waxen berry.

 

 

 

CHAPTER IX

HOOKER'S HOT SPRINGS

 

Arizona has several hot springs within her borders but, perhaps,

none are more valuable nor picturesquely located than Hooker's

hot springs.  These springs are located in the foothills on the

western slope of the Galiura mountains in southeastern Arizona,

thirty-five miles west of Willcox on the Southern Pacific

Railroad.  The spot is beautifully situated, commanding an

extended view of valley and mountain scenery.

 

There are a dozen springs, big and little, in the group and

are scattered over several acres of hillside.  The temperature

of the water is 130 degrees Fahrenheit and too hot to drink but,

if sipped slowly, it makes an admirable hot-water draught.  The

springs evidently have their source deep down in the earth and

the flow of water never varies.  When the water from the

different springs is all united it forms a good sized brook.  The

water is conducted through pipes into the bath house, where it

supplies a row of bath-tubs with water of any desired

temperature.  The surplus water flows into a large earthern tank

or artificial lake and is used for irrigating a small farm that

produces grain, fruits and vegetables.

 

The water from these springs is in great demand and is not only

sought by the human biped, but is also in favor with the equine

quadruped.  Every morning after the stable doors are thrown open

and the horses turned loose they invariably, of their own accord,

proceed to the lake, wade out into shallow water and take a bath.

They lie down and splash the water about like a lot of schoolboys

taking a swim.

 

The water from all the springs is perfectly soft and pure.  It

cannot be called a mineral water, as an analysis shows that it

contains only a trace of any kind of mineral matter.  This

peculiarity of the water is no damage to the springs, since

purity is the best recommendation that any water can have.  Water

that is heavily mineralized may be medicinal, but is not

necessarily remedial, or even wholesome, notwithstanding the

popular belief to the contrary.  Water that is charged with much

mineral is spoiled for drinking.  Moderately hard water need not

be injurious to anybody, but is especially beneficial to

children.  The assimilative function in the child appropriates

mineral water tardily and sometimes absorbs it altogether too

slowly for the child's good.  Its absence in the system causes a

disease called rickets, in which, from all lack of lime, the

bones of the child become soft and yielding.  The bones of a

rickety child will bend rather than break.  It is slow to walk

and inclines to become bow-legged.

 

It is entirely different in old age.  As the years multiply the

system absorbs an abnormal and ever increasing amount of

calcareous matter.  The bones become unduly hard and brittle and

are easily broken.  Bony matter is liable to be deposited in and

about the joints, when they become stiff and painful.  It also

lodges in the various soft tissues of the body, and ossification

of the valves of the heart and walls of the arteries sometimes

happens.  It weakens the blood vessels so that they easily

rupture, which causes apoplexy, paralysis and death.  Calcareous

concretions in the kidneys and bladder, also, come from the same

cause, and are called gravel.  Such deposits are not only

annoying and painful to the patient, but in time may prove fatal

if not removed by surgery.

 

Middle-aged and elderly people should never drink anything but

soft water.  If a natural supply of soft water cannot be obtained

distilled water should be substituted.  If neither natural soft

water nor distilled water are available, and there is doubt as to

the purity of the water that is being used, it should be boiled

and then let stand to cool and settle.  Boiling not only destroys

and renders harmless any organic germs that may be present, but

also precipitates and eliminates much of its inorganic salts.

 

A few drops of a weak solution of nitrate of silver added to a

glass of water will quickly determine its quality.  If the water

that is being tested is free from mineral matter no change is

produced, but if it contains mineral it turns the water opaque or

milky.

 

The value of mineral water as a healthful or necessary drink has

been greatly exaggerated.  While it may do good in some

instances, it is not nearly as beneficial as is commonly

supposed.  Instead of it always doing good the contrary is often

true.

 

If a mineral water is desired there is no necessity of visiting a

mineral spring to obtain it, as it can be made artificially at

home or at the nearest pharmacy in any quantity or of any quality

desired, with the additional advantage of having it contain

exactly the ingredients wanted.  There are nearly as many mineral

waters on the market as there are patent medicines, and both are

about equally misrepresented and deceiving.  All classes of

people would undoubtedly be greatly benefited in health, strength

and longevity if more attention was given to the quality of our

domestic water supply.  Any one who needs a change, other things

being equal, should seek a resort that furnishes pure, soft water

rather than choose a spring that only boasts of its mineral

properties.  Not all of the benefit that is derived from a course

at watering place is due to the virtues of the water, be it ever

so potent.  The change of environment, climate, diet, bathing,

etc., are each factors that contribute something towards a cure.

 

Next to using pure water as a beverage it is important to know

how to bathe properly, such knowledge being simple and plain

enough if only common sense is used.  Usually the more simply a

bath is administered the better are the results.  Some people

seem to think that in order to derive any benefit from a bath it

is necessary to employ some unusual or complicated process.

Nothing is further from the truth.  The plain, tepid bath is the

best for general use.  It thoroughly cleanses the body and

produces no unpleasant shock.  A hot bath is rarely needed but,

if it is used, enough time should be given after it to rest and

cool off before going out into the open air in order to avoid

taking cold.  The good or harm of a bath must be judged by its

effects.

 

A bath is only beneficial when it is followed by a healthy

reaction, which is indicated by an agreeable feeling of warmth

and comfort, and is injurious if the subject feels cold, weak or

depressed.  A bath does not affect all people alike; what will do

one person good may injure another.  It is never wise to

prescribe a stereotyped treatment for every patient.  The

disease, temperament and constitution of each individual must be

taken into account and the temperature and frequency of the bath

must be determined and regulated by the necessity and

idiosyncrasies of each case.  The amount of bathing that a

strong, full-blooded person could endure would mop out the life

of a thin, bloodless weakling.

 

Locally, these springs have become famous because of the

remarkable cures they have effected, and are sought by many sick

people who have failed to find relief by other means.  Before the

white man came the Indians used the water for curing their sick.

The water is curative in rheumatism, neuralgia, dyspepsia, blood

and skin disorders and kidney complaint.  The water cure is all

right even if it does not always fulfill every expectation.

 

Hooker's hot springs is a pleasant place to visit for people who

are not invalids.  It is off the beaten path of travel and is an

ideal spot for the tired man who needs a rest.  It has not yet

been overrun by the crowd, but retains all of the natural charm

of freshness which the old resorts have lost.  Here nature riots

in all of her wild beauty and has not yet been perceptibly marred

by the despoiling hand of man.

 

Aside from the luxury of the baths which the place affords the

visitor can find a great deal to please him.  The climate is

healthful and the weather pleasant during most of the year.  In

the near vicinity much can be found in nature that is

interesting.  Never-failing mountain streams, deep canons and

dark forests wait to be visited and explored, while curiosities

in animal and vegetable life abound.  Not far off is a place here

perfect geodes of chalcedony are found.

 

Mining and ranching are the leading industries of the country and

a visit to some neighboring mine or cattle ranch is not without

interest to the novice.  But, if he starts out on such a trip he

must decide to make a day of it, as the country is sparsely

settled and the distances long between camps.  If the

accommodations where he stops are not always luxurious the

welcome is cordial and the entertainment comfortable.  The new

experience is also delightfully romantic.

 

 

 

CHAPTER X

CANON ECHOES

 

The Colorado Plateau, in northern Arizona, is the union of the

Rocky and Sierra Nevada mountains in their southward trend, and

forms the southern rim of the Great Basin.  This depression was

once a vast inland sea, of which nothing remains but the Salt

Lake of Utah, and is drained by the Colorado river.  The entire

plateau region is remarkable for its grand scenery--abysmal

chasms, sculptured buttes and towering cliffs, which are

"brightly colored as if painted by artist Gods, not stained and

daubed by inharmonious hues but beautiful as flowers and gorgeous

as the clouds."  The plateau is an immense woodland of pines

known as the Coconino Forest.

 

The San Francisco mountains, nearly thirteen thousand feet high,

stand in the middle of the plateau which is, also, the center of

an extensive extinct volcanic field.  The whole country is

covered with cinders which were thrown from active volcanoes

centuries ago.  The track of the Santa Fe Pacific railroad, clear

across Arizona, is ballasted with cinders instead of gravel that

were dug from pits on its own right of way.

 

Near the southern base of the San Francisco mountains is the town

of Flagstaff built in a natural forest of pine trees.  It is

sometimes called the Skylight City because of its high altitude,

rarefied atmosphere and brilliant sky.   It is said to have been

named by a company of soldiers who camped on the spot while out

hunting Indians, when the country was new.  It happened to be on

the Fourth of July and they celebrated the day by unfurling Old

Glory from the top of a pine tree, which was stripped of its

branches and converted into a flagstaff.  Here is located the

Lowell Observatory, which has made many valuable discoveries in

astronomy.  It is a delightful spot and offers many attractions

to the scientist, tourist and health seeker.

 

One of the many interesting objects of this locality is the Ice

Cave situated eight miles southwest of the town.  It not only

attracts the curious, but its congealed stores are also drawn on

by the people who live in the vicinity when the domestic ice

supply runs short.  The cave is entered from the side of a ravine

and its opening is arched by lava rock.  How the ice ever got

there is a mystery unless it is, as Mr. Volz claims, glacial ice

that was covered and preserved by a thick coat of cinders which

fell when the San Francisco Peaks were in active eruption.  As

far as observed the ice never becomes more nor ever gets less,

except what is removed by mining.

 

The region is unusually attractive to the naturalist.  It is the

best field for the study of entomology that is known.  But all

nature riots here.  Dr. C. Hart Merriam, in his report of a

biological survey of the San Francisco mountains and Painted

Desert, states that there are seven distinct life zones in a

radius of twenty-five miles running the entire gamut from the

Arctic to the Tropic.[2] The variety of life which he found and

describes cannot be duplicated in the same space anywhere else

upon the globe.

 

[2] Results of a Biological Survey of the San Francisco Mountain

Region and Painted Desert of the Little Colorado, Arizona. 1890.

 

 

But the greatest natural wonder of this region and, it is claimed

by competent judges of the whole world, is the Grand Canon of

Arizona, which is seventy-two miles north of Flagstaff.

Thurber's stage line, when it was running, carried passengers

through in one day, but after the railroad was built from

Williams to Bright Angel the stage was abandoned.  However it is

an interesting trip and many people make it every summer by

private conveyance who go for an outing and can travel leisurely.

It is a good natural road and runs nearly the entire distance

through an open pine forest.

 

Two roads leave Flagstaff for the Canon called respectively the

summer and winter roads.  The former goes west of the San

Francisco mountains and intersects with the winter road that runs

east of the peaks at Cedar Ranch, which was the midway station of

the old stage line.  The summer road is the one usually

travelled, as the winter road is almost destitute of water.

 

The road ascends rapidly from an elevation of seven thousand feet

at Flagstaff to eleven thousand feet at the summit, and descends

more gradually to Cedar Ranch, where the elevation is less than

five thousand feet and in distance is about halfway to the Canon.

Here cedar and pinon trees take the place of the taller pines.

Cedar Ranch is on an arm of the Painted Desert, which stretches

away towards the east over a wide level plain to the horizon.

From this point the road ascends again on an easy grade until it

reaches an elevation of eight thousand feet at the Canon.

 

During the long drive through the pine woods the appearance of

the country gives no hint of a desert, but beautiful scenery

greets the eye on every hand.  The air is filled with the

fragrance of pine and ozone that is as exhilarating as wine.  No

signs of severe windstorms are seen in broken branches and fallen

trees.  If an occasional tree is found lying prostrate it was

felled either by the woodman's ax or one of nature's destructive

forces, fire or decay, or both.  But the large number of

shattered trees which are encountered during the day give

evidence that the lightning is frequently very destructive in its

work.  The bark of the pine trees is of a reddish gray color,

which contrasts brightly with the green foliage.

 

The winter road furnishes even more attractions than the summer

road on which line a railroad should be built through to the

Canon.  Soon after leaving town a side road leads to the cliff

dwellings in Walnut Canon.  Along the wayside a signboard points

the direction to the Bottomless Pit, which is a deep hole in the

ground that is only one of many such fissures in the earth found

on the Colorado Plateau.  Four miles east of Canon Diablo a

narrow fissure from a few inches  to several feet wide and

hundreds of feet deep has been traced in a continuous line over

one hundred miles.

 

Further on a group of cave dwellings can be seen among the rocks

upon a distant bill.  A turn in the road next brings the Sunset

Mountain into view.  Its crest glows with the colors of sunset,

which unusual effect is produced by colored rocks that are of

volcanic origin.   Black cinders cover its steep sides and its

brow is the rim of a deep crater.  Between Sunset Peak and

O'Leary Peak is the Black Crater from which flowed at one time

thick streams of black lava that hardened into rock and are known

as the lava beds.  Scores of crater cones and miles of black

cinders can be seen from Sunset Mountain, and lava and cinders of

this region look as fresh as if an eruption had occurred but

yesterday.

 

A peculiarity of the pine trees which grow in the cinders is that

their roots do not go down but spread out upon the surface.  Some

of the roots are entirely bare while others are half buried in

cinders.  They are from an inch to a foot thick and from ten to

fifty feet long, according to the size of the tree which they

support.  The cause of the queer root formation is not apparent.

 

The whole plateau country is scarce of water.  The Grand Canon

drains the ground dry to an unusual depth.  The nearest spring of

water to the Canon at Grand View is Cedar Spring, forty miles

distant.  Until recently all the water used at the canon was

either packed upon burros from springs down in the canon or

caught in ponds or reservoirs from rains or melted snow.  Since

the completion of the railroad the water is hauled in on cars

constructed for that purpose.

 

The watershed of the canon slopes away from the rim and instead

of the storm water running directly into the river it flows in

the opposite direction.  Only after a long detour of many miles

does it finally reach the river by the Little Colorado or

Cataract Creek.

 

Now that the Grand Canon is made accessible by rail over a branch

road of the Santa Fe from Williams on the main line, it is

reached in comparative ease and comfort.  But to stop at the

Bright Angel Hotel and look over the guard rail on the cliff down

into the canon gives merely a glimpse of what there is to see.  A

brief stay of one day is better than not stopping at all, but to

get even an inkling of its greatness and grandeur days and weeks

must be spent in making trips up and down and into the canon.

 

After having seen the canon at Bright Angel the next move should

be to go to Grand View fourteen miles up the canon.  An all day's

stage ride from Flagstaff to the canon was tiresome, but the two

hours' drive through the pine woods from Bright Angel to Grand

View is only pleasant recreation.

 

Seeing the Grand Canon for the first time does not necessarily

produce the startling and lachrymose effects that have been

described by some emotional writers, but the first sight never

disappoints and always leaves a deep and lasting impression.

 

As immense as is the great chasm it is formed in such harmonious

proportions that it does not shock the senses.  But as everything

about the canon is built on such a grand scale and the eyes not

being accustomed to such sights it is impossible to comprehend

it--to measure its dimensions correctly or note every detail of

form and color at the first glance.  As the guide remarked, "God

made it so d-- big that you can't lie about it."

 

To comprehend it at all requires time to re-educate the senses

and make them accustomed to the new order of things.  But even a

cursory view will always remain in the memory as the event of a

lifetime in the experience of the average mortal.

 

Distance in the canon cannot be measured by the usual standards.

There are sheer walls of rocks that are thousands of feet high

and as many more feet deep, but where the bottom seems to be is

only the beginning of other chasms which lie in the dark shadows

and descend into yet deeper depths below.  The canon is not a

single empty chasm, which is the universal conception of a canon,

but consists of a complex system of sub and side canons that is

bewildering.  Out of its depths rise an infinite number and

variety of castellated cliffs and sculptured buttes that

represent every conceivable variety of architecture.  They have

the appearance of a resurrected city of great size and beauty

which might have been built by an army of Titans then buried and

forgotten.

 

A trip into the canon down one of the trails makes its magnitude

even more impressive than a rim view.  The distance across the

chasm is also much greater than what it seems to be, which is

demonstrated by the blue haze that fills the canon.  The nearby

buttes are perfectly distinct, but as the distance increases

across the great gorge the haze gradually thickens until the

opposite wall is almost obscured by the mist.

 

The myriads of horizontal lines which mark the different strata

of rocks have the appearance of a maze of telegraph wires strung

through the canon.

 

A ride leisurely on horseback along the rim trail from Thurber's

old camp to Bissell's Point, seven miles up the canon, and back

is easily made in a day.  It presents a panorama of magnificent

views all along the rim, but Bissell's is conceded to be the best

view point on the canon.  From this point about thirty miles of

river can be seen as it winds in and out deep down among the

rocks.  The Colorado river is a large stream, but as seen here a

mile below and several miles out, it dwindles into insignificance

and appears no larger than a meadow brook.  The river looks

placid in the distance, but is a raging, turbulent torrent in

which an ordinary boat cannot live and the roar of its wild

waters can be distinctly heard as of the rushing of a distant

train of cars.

 

A second day spent in riding down the canon to Grand View Point

and back is equally delightful.  Looking across a bend in the

canon from Grand View Point to Bissell's Point the distance seems

to be scarcely more than a stone's throw, yet it is fully half

the distance of the circuitous route by the rim trail.

 

There are three trails leading into the canon and down to the

river, the Bright Angel, Grand View and Hance trails, which are

at intervals of eight and twelve miles apart.  They are equally

interesting and comparatively safe if the trip is made on the

back of a trained pony or burro with a competent guide.

 

The Hance trail is a loop and is twenty miles long.  It is seven

miles down to the river, six miles up the stream and seven miles

back to the rim.  It was built single handed by Captain John

Hance, who has lived many years in the canon.  The trail is free

to pedestrians, but yields the captain a snug income from horse

hire and his own services as guide for tourists who go over the

trail.

 

Captain Hance is an entertaining raconteur and he spins many

interesting yarns for the amusement, if not the edification, of

his guests.  The serious manner in which he relates his stories

makes it sometimes hard to tell whether he is in jest or earnest.

His acknowledged skill in mountaineering, and felicity in

romancing has won for him more than a local reputation and the

distinguished title of Grand Canon Guide and Prevaricator.

 

He relates how "once upon a time" he pursued a band of mountain

sheep on the rim of the canon.  Just as he was about to secure

his quarry the sheep suddenly turned a short corner and

disappeared behind some rocks.  Before he realized his danger he

found himself on the brink of a yawning abyss and under such a

momentum that he could not turn aside or stop his horse.

Together they went over the cliff in an awful leap.  He expected

to meet instant death on the rocks below and braced himself for

the shock.  As the fall was greater than usual, being over a mile

deep in a perpendicular line, it required several seconds for the

descending bodies to traverse the intervening space, which gave

him a few moments to think and plan some way of escape.  At the

critical moment a happy inspiration seized and saved him.  On the

instant that his horse struck the rock and was dashed to pieces,

the captain sprang nimbly from the saddle to his feet unharmed.

To prove the truth of his statement he never misses an

opportunity to point out to the tourist the spot where his horse

fell, and shows the white bones of his defunct steed bleaching in

the sun.

 

At Moran's Point there is a narrow cleft in the rocks which he

calls the Fat Woman's Misery.  It received its name several years

ago from a circumstance that happened while he was conducting a

party of tourists along the rim trail.  To obtain a better view

the party essayed to squeeze through the opening, in which

attempt all succeeded except one fat women who stuck fast.  After

vainly trying to extricate her from her uncomfortable position he

finally told her that there was but one of two things to do,

either remain where she was and starve to death or take one

chance in a thousand of being blown out alive by dynamite.  After

thinking a moment she decided to try the "one chance in a

thousand" experiment.

 

A charge of dynamite was procured and the fuse lighted.  After

the explosion he returned to the spot and found the result

satisfactory.  The blast had released the woman, who was alive

and sitting upon a rock.  He approached her cheerfully and said:

 

"Madam, how do you feel?"  She looked up shocked, but evidently

very much relieved, and replied "Why, sir, I feel first rate, but

the jolt gave me a little toothache."

 

He tells another story of how he once took a drink from the

Colorado river.  The water is never very clear in the muddy

stream but at that particular time it was unusually murky.  He

had nothing with which to dip the water and lay down on the bank

to take a drink.  Being very thirsty he paid no attention to the

quality of the water, but only knew that it tasted wet.  The

water, however, grew thicker as he drank until it became balled

up in his mouth, and stuck fast in his throat and threatened to

choke him.  He tried to bite it off but failed because his teeth

were poor.  At last becoming desperate, he pulled his hunting

knife from his belt and cut himself loose from his drink.

 

Different theories have been advanced to account for the origin

of the Grand Canon, but it is a question whether it is altogether

due to any one cause.  Scientists say that it is the work of

water erosion, but to the layman it seems impossible.  If an

ocean of water should flow over rocks during eons of ages it does

not seem possible that it could cut such a channel.

 

Water sometimes does queer things, but it has never been known to

reverse nature.  By a fundamental law of hydrostatics water

always seeks its level and flows in the direction of least

resistance.  If water ever made the Grand Canon it had to climb a

hill and cut its way through the backbone of the Buckskin

mountains, which are not a range of peaks but a broad plateau of

solid rock.  Into this rock the canon is sunk more than a mile

deep, from six to eighteen miles wide and over two hundred miles

long.

 

In order to make the theory of water erosion tenable it is

assumed that the Colorado river started in its incipiency like

any other river.  After a time the river bed began to rise and

was gradually pushed up more and more by some unknown

subterranean force as the water cut deeper and deeper into the

rock until the Grand Canon was formed.

 

Captain Hance has a theory that the canon originated in an

underground stream which tunneled until it cut its way through to

the surface.  As improbable as is this theory it is as plausible

as the erosion theory, but both theories appear to be equally

absurd.

 

At some remote period of time the entire southwest was rent and

torn by an awful cataclysm which caused numerous fissures and

seams to appear all over the country.  The force that did the

work had its origin in the earth and acted by producing lateral

displacement rather than direct upheaval.  Whenever that event

occurred the fracture which marks the course of the Grand Canon

was made and, breaking through the enclosing wall of the Great

Basin, set free the waters of an inland sea.  What the seismic

force began the flood of liberated water helped to finish, and

there was born the greatest natural wonder of the known world.

 

There are canons all over Arizona and the southwest that resemble

the Grand Canon, except that they were made on a smaller scale.

Many of them are perfectly dry and apparently never contained any

running water.  They are all so much alike that they were

evidently made at the same time and by the same cause.  Walnut

Canon and Canon Diablo are familiar examples of canon formation.

 

The rocks in the canons do not stand on end, but lie in

horizontal strata and show but little dip anywhere.  Indeed, the

rocks lie so plumb in many places that they resemble the most

perfect masonry.

 

The rim rock of the Mogollon Mesa is of the same character as the

walls of the Grand Canon and is an important part of the canon

system.  It is almost a perpendicular cliff from one to three

thousand feet high which extends from east to west across central

Arizona and divides the great northern plateau from the southern

valleys.  It is one side of an immense vault or canon wall whose

mate has been lost or dropped completely out of sight.

 

In many of the canons where water flows continuously, effects are

produced that are exactly the opposite of those ascribed to water

erosion.  Instead of the running water cutting deeper into the

earth it has partly filled the canon with alluvium, thereby

demonstrating nature's universal leveling process.  Even the

floods of water which pour through them during every rainy season

with an almost irresistible force carry in more soil than they

wash out and every freshet only adds new soil to the old

deposits.  If these canons were all originally made by water

erosion as is claimed, why does not the water continue to act in

the same manner now but, instead, completely reverses itself as

above stated?  There can be but one of two conclusions, either

that nature has changed or that scientists are mistaken.

 

The Aravaipa in southern Arizona is an interesting canon and is

typical of its kind.  Its upper half is shallow and bounded by

low rolling foothills, but in the middle it suddenly deepens and

narrows into a box canon, which has high perpendicular walls of

solid rock like the Grand Canon.  It is a long, narrow valley

sunk deep into the earth and has great fertility and much wild

beauty.  It measures from a few feet to a mile in width and

drains a large scope of rough country.  The surface water which

filters through from above reappears in numerous springs of clear

cold water in the bottom of the canon.  In the moist earth and

under the shade of forest trees grow a variety of rare flowers,

ferns and mosses.

 

Where the canon begins to box a large spring of pure cold water

issues from the sand in the bottom of a wash which is the source

of the Aravaipa creek.  It flows through many miles of rich

alluvial land and empties into the San Predo river.  The valley

was settled many years ago by men who were attracted to the spot

by its rare beauty, fertility of soil and an abundance of wood

and water.

 

The land is moist and covered by a heavy growth of forest trees,

which will average over one hundred feet high.  The trees are as

large and the foliage as dense as in any eastern forest.  Being

sunk deep in the earth the narrow valley at the bottom of the

canon can only be seen from above.  When viewed from some

favorable point it has the appearance of a long green ribbon

stretched loosely over a brown landscape.  The sight of it is a

pleasant surprise to the weary wayfarer who, after traveling over

many miles of dreary desert road, finds himself suddenly ushered

into such pleasant scenes.

 

The canons of Arizona are unrivaled for grandeur, sublimity and

beauty, and will attract an ever increasing number of admirers.

 

 

 

CHAPTER XI

THE METEORITE MOUNTAIN

 

Ten miles southeast of Canon Diablo station on the Santa Fe

Pacific Railroad, stands the Meteorite Mountain of Arizona, on a

wide, open plain of the Colorado Plateau.  It is two hundred feet

high and, as seen at a distance, has the appearance of a low,

flat mountain.  Its top forms the rim of an immense, round,

bowl-shaped hole in the ground that has almost perpendicular

sides, is one mile wide and over six hundred feet deep.  The

hole, originally, was evidently very much deeper than it is at

the present time, but it has gradually become filled with debris

to its present depth.  The bottom of the hole has a floor of

about forty acres of level ground which merges into a talus.

 

This formation is sometimes called the Crater, because of its

shape, but there is no evidence of volcanic action.  Locally it

is known as Coon Butte, which is a misnomer; but Meteorite

Mountain is a name with a meaning.

 

It is not known positively just how or when the mountain was

formed, but the weight of evidence seems to favor the meteorite

theory, which is that at some remote period of time a monster

meteorite fell from the sky and buried itself in the earth.

 

Mr. F. W. Volz, who has lived in the country twenty years and is

an intelligent observer of natural phenomena, has made a careful

study of the mountain, and it is his opinion that such an event

actually occurred and that a falling star made the mountain.

When the descending meteorite, with its great weight and terrific

momentum, hit the earth something had to happen.  It buried

itself deep beneath the surface and caused the earth to heave up

on all sides.  The effect produced is aptly illustrated, on a

small scale, by throwing a rock into thick mud.

 

The impact of the meteorite upon the earth not only caused an

upheaval of the surface, but it also crushed and displaced the

rocks beneath.  As the stellar body penetrated deeper into the

earth its force became more concentrated and either compressed

the rocks into a denser mass or ground them to powder.

 

The plain on which the mountain stands is covered by a layer of

red sandstone of variable thickness, as it is much worn in places

by weather erosion.  Below the top covering of red sandstone lie

three hundred feet of limestone and beneath the limestone five

hundred feet more of white sandstone.  This arrangement of the

rocks is plainly seen in the walls of Canon Diablo.

 

The displaced strata of rocks in the hole are tilted and stand

outwards and great boulders of red sandstone and limestone lie

scattered all about.  If the hole had been made by an explosion

from below large pieces of rock from each one of the different

rock strata would have been thrown out; but, while as just

stated, there are plenty of huge blocks of red sandstone and

limestone, there are no large pieces of white sandstone.  After

the superficial layers of rock had been broken up and expelled en

masse, the deeper rock of white sandstone, being more confined,

could not reach the surface in the shape of boulders, but had

first to be broken up and ground to powder before it could

escape.  Then the white sandstones in the form of fine sand was

blown skywards by the collision and afterwards settled down upon

the mountain.  The mountain is covered with this white sand,

which could only have come out of the big hole as there is no

other white sand or sandstone found anywhere else upon the entire

plain.

 

In the vicinity of the mountain about ten tons of meteorites have

been found, varying in size from the fraction of an ounce to one

thousand pounds or more.  Most of the meteorites were found by

Mr. Volz, who searched diligently every foot of ground for miles

around.  The smaller pieces were picked up on or near the rim,

and they increased in size in proportion as they were distant

from the mountain until, on a circle eight miles out, the largest

piece was found.  Meteorites were found upon all sides of the

mountain but they seemed to be thickest on the east side.

 

The writer first visited the mountain in the summer of 1901 and

it was the greatest surprise of his six weeks' trip sightseeing

in northern Arizona where are found many natural wonders.  He was

fortunate enough to find a three pound meteorite within five

minutes after arriving on the rim, which Mr. Volz said was the

first specimen found by anyone in over four years.

 

Professor G. K. Gilbert of the United States Geological Survey

visited the mountain several years ago to investigate the

phenomenon and, if possible, to determine its origin by

scientific test.  He gave the results of his researches in a very

able and comprehensive address,[3] delivered before the

Geological Society of Washington, D.C.  The existing conditions

did not seem to fit his theories, and he concluded his work

without arriving at any definite conclusion.

 

[3] The Origin of Hypotheses. 1895.

 

 

After disposing of several hypotheses as being incompetent to

prove the origin of the mountain he decided to try the magnetic

test.  He assumed that if such a meteorite was buried there the

large mass of metallic iron must indicate its presence by

magnetic attraction.  By means of the latest scientific apparatus

he conducted an elaborate magnetic experiment which gave only

negative results.

 

He discussed at length the various hypotheses which might explain

the origin of the crater and concluded his notable address as

follows:

 

"Still another contribution to the subject, while it does not

increase the number of hypotheses, is nevertheless important in

that it tends to diminish the weight of the magnetic evidence and

thus to reopen the question which Mr. Baker and I supposed we had

settled.  Our fellow-member, Mr. Edwin E. Howell, through whose

hands much of the meteoric iron had passed, points out that each

of the iron masses, great and small, is in itself a complete

individual.  They have none of the characters that would be found

if they had been broken one from another, and yet, as they are

all of one type and all reached the earth within a small

district, it must be supposed that they were originally connected

in some way.

 

"Reasoning by analogy from the characters of other meteoric

bodies, he infers that the irons were all included in a large

mass of some different material, either crystalline rock, such as

constitutes the class of meteorites called 'stony,' or else a

compound of iron and sulphur, similar to certain nodules

discovered inside the iron masses when sawn in two.  Neither of

these materials is so enduring as iron, and the fact that they

are not now found on the plain does not prove their original

absence.  Moreover, the plain is strewn in the vicinity of the

crater with bits of limonite, a mineral frequently produced by

the action of air and water on iron sulphides, and this material

is much more abundant than the iron.  If it be true that the iron

masses were thus imbedded, like plums in an astral pudding, the

hypothetic buried star might have great size and yet only small

power to attract the magnetic needle.  Mr. Howell also proposes a

qualification of the test by volumes, suggesting that some of the

rocks beneath the buried star might have been condensed by the

shock so as to occupy less space.

 

"These considerations are eminently pertinent to the study of the

crater and will find appropriate place in any comprehensive

discussion of its origin; but the fact which is peculiarly worthy

of note at the present time is their ability to unsettle a

conclusion that was beginning to feel itself secure.  This

illustrates the tentative nature not only of the hypotheses of

science, but of what science calls its results.

 

"The method of hypotheses, and that method is the method of

science, founds its explanations of nature wholly on observed

facts, and its results are ever subject to the limitations

imposed by imperfect observation.  However grand, however widely

accepted, however useful its conclusions, none is so sure that it

cannot be called into question by a newly discovered fact.  In

the domain of the world's knowledge there is no infallibility."

 

After Prof. Gilbert had finished his experiments, Mr. Volz tried

some of his own along the same line.  He found upon trial that

the meteorites in his possession were non-magnetic, or,

practically so.  If these, being pieces of the larger meteorite

which was buried in the hole, were non-magnetic, all of it must

be non-magnetic, which would account for the failure of the

needle to act or manifest any magnetic attraction in the greater

test.

 

Mr. Volz also made another interesting discovery in this same

connection.  All over the meteorite zone are scattered about

small pieces of iron which he calls "iron shale."  It is

analogous to the true meteorite, but is "burnt" or "dead."  He

regards these bits of iron as dead sparks from a celestial forge,

which fell from the meteorite as it blazed through the heavens.

 

In experimenting with the stuff he found that it was not only

highly magnetic, but also possessed polarity in a marked degree;

and was entirely different from the true meteorite.  Here was a

curiosity, indeed; a small, insignificant and unattractive stone

possessed of strong magnetic polarity, a property of electricity

that is as mysterious and incomprehensible as is electricity

itself.

 

Another peculiarity of Canon Diablo meteorite is that it contains

diamonds.  When the meteorite was first discovered by a Mexican

sheep herder he supposed that he had found a large piece of

silver, because of its great weight and luster, but he was soon

informed of his mistake.  Not long afterwards a white prospector

who heard of the discovery undertook to use it to his own

advantage, by claiming that he had found a mine of pure iron,

which he offered for sale.  In an attempt to dispose of the

property samples of the ore were sent east for investigation.

Some of the stone fell into the hands of Dr. Foote, who

pronounced it to be meteorite and of celestial origin.

 

Sir William Crookes in discussing the theory of the meteoric

origin of diamonds[4] says "the most striking confirmation of the

meteoric theory comes from Arizona.  Here, on a broad open plain,

over an area about five miles in diameter, were scattered from

one to two thousand masses of metallic iron, the fragments

varying in weight from half a ton to a fraction of an ounce.

There is little doubt that these masses formed part of a

meteorite shower, although no record exists as to when the fall

took place.  Curiously enough, near the center, where most of the

meteoritics have been found, is a crater with raised edges three

quarters of a mile in diameter and about six hundred feet deep,

bearing exactly the appearance which would be produced had a

mighty mass of iron or falling star struck the ground, scattering

in all directions, and buried itself deep under the surface.

Altogether ten tons of this iron have been collected, and

specimens of Canyon Diablo Meteorite are in most collectors'

cabinets.

 

[4] Diamonds.  Wm. Crookes, F.R.S. Smithsonian Report. 1897.

 

 

"An ardent mineralogist, the late Dr. Foote, in cutting a section

of this meteorite, found the tools were injured by something

vastly harder than metallic iron, and an emery wheel used in

grinding the iron had been ruined.  He examined the specimen

chemically, and soon after announced to the scientific world that

the Canyon Diablo Meteorite contained black and transparent

diamonds.  This startling discovery was afterwards verified by

Professors Friedel and Moissan, who found that the Canyon Diablo

Meteorite contained the three varieties of carbon--diamond

(transparent and black), graphite and amorphous carbon.  Since

this revelation the search for diamonds in meteorites has

occupied the attention of chemists all over the world.

 

"Here, then, we have absolute proof of the truth of the meteoric

theory.  Under atmospheric influences the iron would rapidly

oxidize and rust away, coloring the adjacent soil with red oxide

of iron.  The meteoric diamonds would be unaffected and left on

the surface to be found by explorers when oxidation had removed

the last proof of their celestial origin.  That there are still

lumps of iron left in Arizona is merely due to the extreme

dryness of the climate and the comparatively short time that the

iron has been on our planet.  We are here witnesses to the course

of an event which may have happened in geologic times anywhere on

the earth's surface.

 

About a year ago several mineral claims were located in the

crater by a company of scientific and moneyed men.  The required

assessment work was done and a patent for the land obtained from

the government.  The object of the enterprise is for a double

purpose, if possible to solve the mystery of the mountain, and if

successful in finding the "hypothetic buried star" to excavate

and appropriate it for its valuable iron.

 

A shaft has been sunk one hundred and ninety-five feet deep,

where a strong flow of water was encountered in a bed of white

sand which temporarily stopped the work.  A gasoline engine and

drill were procured and put in operation and the drill was driven

down forty feet further when it stuck fast in white quicksand.

It is the intention of the company to continue the work and carry

it on to a successful finish.

 

Nothing of value was found in the hole dug, but some of the

workmen in their leisure hours found on the surface two large

meteorites weighing one hundred and one hundred and fifty pounds

respectively, besides a number of smaller fragments.

 

The Meteorite Mountain is in a class by itself and is, in a

way, as great a curiosity as is the Grand Canon.  It is little

known and has not received the attention that it deserves.

It is, indeed, marvelous and only needs to be seen to be

appreciated.

 

 

 

CHAPTER XII

THE CLIFF DWELLERS

 

In the canons of the Colorado river and its tributaries are found

the ruins of an ancient race of cliff dwellers.  These ruins are

numerous and are scattered over a wide scope of country, which

includes Arizona and portions of Utah, Colorado and New Mexico.

Many of them are yet in a good state of preservation, but all

show the marks of age and decay.  They are not less than four

hundred years old and are, in all probability, much older.  Their

preservation is largely due to their sheltered position among the

rocks and an exceptionally dry climate.

 

The houses are invariably built upon high cliffs on shelving

rocks in places that are almost inaccessible.  In some instances

they can only be reached by steps cut into the solid rock, which

are so old and worn that they are almost obliterated.  Their

walls so nearly resemble the stratified rocks upon which they

stand, that they are not easily distinguished from their

surroundings.

 

The cliffs are often sloping, sometimes overhanging, but more

frequently perpendicular.  The weather erosion of many centuries

has caused the softer strata of exposed rocks in the cliffs to

disintegrate and fall away, which left numberless caverns wherein

this ancient and mysterious people chose to build their eyrie

homes to live with the eagles.  The houses are built of all

shapes and sizes and, apparently, were planned to fit the

irregular and limited space of their environment.  Circular watch

towers look down from commanding heights which, from their shape

and position, were evidently intended to serve the double purpose

of observation and defense.

 

In the search for evidence of their antiquity it is believed that

data has been found which denotes great age.  In the construction

of some of their houses, notably those in the Mancos Canon, is

displayed a technical knowledge of architecture and a

mathematical accuracy which savages do not possess; and the fine

masonry of dressed stone and superior cement seem to prove that

Indians were not the builders.  On the contrary, to quote a

recent writer, "The evidence goes to show that the work was done

by skilled workmen who were white masons and who built for white

people in a prehistoric age."  In this connection it is singular,

if not significant, that the natives when first discovered

believed in a bearded white man whom they deified as the Fair God

of whose existence they had obtained knowledge from some source

and in whose honor they kept their sacred altar fires burning

unquenched.

 

The relics that have been found in the ruins are principally

implements of the stone age, but are of sufficient variety to

indicate a succession of races that were both primitive and

cultured and as widely separated in time as in knowledge.

 

The cliff dwellings were not only the abodes of their original

builders, but were occupied and deserted successively by the

chipped stone implement maker, the polisher of hard stone, the

basket maker and the weaver.

 

Among the relics that have been found in the ruins are some very

fine specimens of pottery which are as symmetrical and well

finished as if they had been turned on a potter's wheel, and

covered with an opaque enamel of stanniferous glaze composed of

lead and tin that originated with the Phoenicians, and is as old

as history.  Can it be possible that the cliff dwellers are a

lost fragment of Egyptian civilization?

 

The cliff ruins in Arizona are not only found in the canons of

the Colorado river, but also in many other places.  The finest of

them are Montezuma's Castle on Beaver creek, and the Casa Blanca

in Canon de Chelly.  Numerous other ruins are found on the Rio

Verde, Gila river, Walnut Canon and elsewhere.

 

The largest and finest group of cliff dwellings are those on the

Mesa Verde in Colorado.  They are fully described in the great

work[5] of Nordenskiold, who spent much time among them.  The

different houses are named after some peculiarity of appearance

or construction, like the Cliff Palace, which contains more than

one hundred rooms, Long House, Balcony House, Spruce Tree House,

etc.

 

[5] The Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa Verde, by F. Nordenskiold,

Stockholm. 1893.

 

 

He obtained a large quantity of relics, which are also fully

described, consisting of stone implements, pottery, cotton and

feather cloth, osier and palmillo mats, yucca sandals, weaving

sticks, bone awls, corn and beans.

 

Many well-preserved mummies were found buried in graves that were

carefully closed and sealed.  The bodies were wrapped in a fine

cotton cloth of drawn work, which was covered by a coarser cloth

resembling burlap, and all inclosed in a wrapping of palmillo

matting tied with a cord made of the fiber of cedar bark.  The

hair is fine and of a brown color, and not coarse and black like

the hair of the wild Indians.  Mummies have been exhumed that

have red or light colored hair such as usually goes with a fair

skin.  This fact has led some to believe that the cliff dwellers

belonged to the white race, but not necessarily so, as this

quality of hair also belongs to albinos, who doubtless lived

among the cliff dwellers as they do among the Moquis and Zunis at

the present day, and explains the peculiarity of hair just

mentioned.

 

These remains may be very modern, as some choose to believe, but,

in all probability, they are more ancient than modern.  Mummies

encased in wood and cloth have been taken from the tombs of Egypt

in an almost perfect state of preservation which cannot be less

than two thousand years old, and are, perhaps, more than double

that age.  As there is no positive knowledge as to when the cliff

dwellers flourished, one man's guess on the subject is as good as

another's.

 

An important discovery was recently made near Mancos, Colorado,

where a party of explorers found in some old cliff dwellings

graves beneath graves that were entirely different from anything

yet discovered.  They were egg-shaped, built of stone and

plastered smoothly with clay.  They contained mummies, cloth,

sandals, beads and various other trinkets.  There was no pottery,

but many well-made baskets, and their owners have been called the

basket makers.  There was also a difference in the skulls found.

The cliff dwellers' skull is short and flattened behind, while

the skulls that were found in these old graves were long, narrow

and round on the back.[6]

 

[6] An Elder Brother of the Cliff Dwellers, by T. M. Prudden,

M.D.  Harper's Magazine, June, 1897.

 

 

Rev. H. M. Baum, who has traveled all over the southwest and

visited every large ruin in the country, considers that Canon de

Chelly and its branch, del Muerto, is the most interesting

prehistoric locality in the United States.  The Navajos, who now

live in the canon, have a tradition that the people who occupied

the old cliff houses were all destroyed in one day by a wind of

fire.[7] The occurrence, evidently, was similar to what happened

recently on the island of Martinique, when all the inhabitants of

the village of St. Pierre perished in an hour by the eruption of

Mont Pelee.

 

[7] Pueblo and Cliff Dwellers of the Southwest.  Records of the

Past, December, 1902.

 

 

Contemporaneous with the cliff dwellers there seems to have lived

a race of people in the adjoining valleys who built cities and

tilled the soil. Judged by their works they must have been an

industrious, intelligent and numerous people.  All over the

ground are strewn broken pieces of pottery that are painted in

bright colors and artistic designs which, after ages of exposure

to the weather, look as fresh as if newly made, The relics that

have been taken from the ruins are similar to those found in the

cliff houses, and consist mostly of stone implements and pottery.

 

In the Gila valley, near the town of Florence, stands the now

famous Casa Grande ruin, which is the best preserved of all these

ancient cities.  It was a ruin when the Spaniards first

discovered it, and is a type of the ancient communal house.  Its

thick walls are composed of a concrete adobe that is as hard as

rock, and its base lines conform to the cardinal points of, the

compass.   It is an interesting relic of a past age and an

extinct race and, if it cannot yield up its secrets to science,

it at least appeals to the spirit of romance and mystery.

 

Irrigating ditches which were fed from reservoirs supplied their

fields and houses with water.  Portions of these old canals are

yet in existence and furnish proof of the diligence and skill of

their builders.  The ditches were located on levels that could

not be improved upon for utilizing the land and water to the best

advantage.  Modern engineers have not been able to better them

and in many places the old levels are used in new ditches at the

present time.

 

Whatever may have been the fate of this ancient people their

destruction must be sought in natural causes rather than by human

warfare.  An adverse fate probably cut off their water supply and

laid waste their productive fields.  With their crops a failure

and all supplies gone what else could the people do but either

starve or move, but as to the nature of the exodus history is

silent.

 

Just how ancient these works are might be difficult to prove, but

they are certainly not modern.  The evidence denotes that they

have existed a long time.  Where the water in a canal flowed over

solid rock the rock has been much worn.  Portions of the old

ditches are filled with lava and houses lie buried in the

vitreous flood.  It is certain that the country was inhabited

prior to the last lava flow whether that event occurred hundreds

or thousands of years ago.

 

It is claimed that the Pueblo Indians and cliff dwellers are

identical and that the latter were driven from their peaceful

valley homes by a hostile foe to find temporary shelter among the

rocks, but such a conclusion seems to be erroneous in view of

certain facts.

 

The cliff dwellings were not temporary camps, as such a migration

would imply, but places of permanent abode.  The houses are too

numerous and well constructed to be accounted for on any other

hypothesis.  A people fleeing periodically to the cliffs to

escape from an enemy could not have built such houses.  Indeed,

they are simply marvelous when considered as to location and

construction.  The time that must necessarily have been consumed

in doing the work and the amount of danger and labor involved--

labor in preparing and getting the material into place and danger

in scaling the dizzy heights over an almost impassible trail, it

seems the boldest assumption to assert that the work was done by

a fleeing and demoralized mob.

 

Again, it would be a physical impossibility for a people who were

only accustomed to agricultural pursuits to suddenly and

completely change their habits of life such as living among the

rocks would necessitate.  Only by native instinct and daily

practice from childhood would it be possible for any people to

follow the narrow and difficult paths which were habitually

traveled by the cliff dwellers.  It requires a clear head and

steady nerves to perform the daring feat in safety--to the truth

of which statement modern explorers can testify who have made the

attempt in recent years at the peril of life and limb while

engaged in searching for archaeological treasures.

 

Judged by the everyday life that is familiar to us it seems

incredible that houses should ever have been built or homes

established in such hazardous places, or that any people should

have ever lived there.  But that they did is an established fact

as there stand the houses which were built and occupied by human

beings in the midst of surroundings that might appall the

stoutest heart.  Children played and men and women wrought on the

brink of frightful precipices in a space so limited and dangerous

that a single misstep made it fatal.

 

It is almost impossible to conceive of any condition in life, or

combination of circumstances in the affairs of men, that should

drive any people to the rash act of living in the houses of the

cliff dwellers.  Men will sometimes do from choice what they

cannot be made to do by compulsion.  It is easier to believe that

the cliff dwellers, being free people, chose of their own accord

the site of their habitation rather than that from any cause they

were compelled to make the choice.  Their preference was to live

upon the cliffs, as they were fitted by nature for such an

environment.

 

For no other reason, apparently, do the Moquis live upon their

rocky and barren mesas away from everything which the civilized

white man deems desirable, yet, in seeming contentment.  The

Supais, likewise, choose to live alone at the bottom of Cataract

Canon where they are completely shut in by high cliffs.  Their

only road out is by a narrow and dangerous trail up the side of

the canon, which is little traveled as they seldom leave home and

are rarely visited.

 

To affirm that the cliff dwellers were driven from their

strongholds and dispersed by force is pure fiction, nor is there

any evidence to support such a theory.  That they had enemies no

one doubts, but, being in possession of an impregnable position

where one man could successfully withstand a thousand, to

surrender would have been base cowardice, and weakness was not a

characteristic of the cliff dwellers.

 

The question of their subsistence is likewise a puzzle.  They

evidently cultivated the soil where it was practicable to do so

as fragments of farm products have been found in their dwellings,

but in the vicinity of some of the houses there is no tillable

land and the inhabitants must have depended upon other means for

support.  The wild game which was, doubtless, abundant furnished

them with meat and edible seeds, fruits and roots from native

plants like the pinon pine and mesquite which together with the

saguaro and mescal, supplied them with a variety of food

sufficient for their subsistence as they do, in a measure, the

wild Indian tribes of that region at the present day.

 

 

 

CHAPTER XII

THE MOQUI INDIANS

 

The Indians of Arizona are, perhaps, the most interesting of any

of the American aborigines.  They are as unique and picturesque

as is the land which they inhabit; and the dead are no less so

than the living.

 

The Pueblo Indians, with which the Moquis are classed, number

altogether about ten thousand and are scattered in twenty-six

villages over Arizona and New Mexico.  They resemble each other

in many respects, but do not all speak the same language.  They

represent several wholly disconnected stems and are classified

linguistically by Brinton as belonging to the Uto-Aztecan, Kera,

Tehua and Zuni stocks.  He believes that the Pueblo civilization

is not due to any one unusually gifted lineage, but is altogether

a local product, developed in independent tribes by their

peculiar environment, which is favorable to agriculture and

sedentary pursuits.[8]

 

[8] The American Race, by D. G. Brinton, 1891.

 

 

The houses are constructed of stone and adobe, are several

stories high and contain many apartments.  None of the existing

pueblos are as large as some that are in ruins which, judging by

the quantity of debris, must have been huge affairs.  Since the

advent of the Spaniard the style of building has changed somewhat

to conform to modern ideas, so that now some families live in

separate one-story houses having doors and windows, instead, as

formerly, only in large communal houses that were built and

conducted on the communal plan.

 

Their manners and customs are peculiar to themselves and make an

interesting study.  Their civilization is entirely original,

though modified to some extent by centuries of contact with the

whites.  They understand the Spanish language, but have not

forgotten their mother tongue.  They hold tenaciously to their

old customs and have not changed materially during the past four

hundred years.

 

During that time the Catholic missionaries endeavored to convert

them to Christianity, but with only partial success.  While they

appeared to acquiesce, by giving formal obedience to the

requirements of the new religion, they yet held sacred their old

beliefs and in the privacy of the estufa practiced in secret the

rites and ceremonies of their ancient faith.

 

The Spaniards undertook to conquer a free and independent people

by teaching them dependence and submission, but signally failed.

After a struggle of two hundred and eighty years Spanish

civilization withdrew and left the Pueblo civilization

victorious.

 

Under successive Spanish, Mexican and American rule the Pueblo

has preserved itself intact which fact stamps the Pueblo people

as being eminently valiant, self-reliant and persevering.  They

are peaceable, industrious and hospitable and are said to be the

best governed people in the world.  As nearly as can be

ascertained they are free from every gross vice and crime and Mr.

C. F. Lummis, who knows them well, believes them to be a

crimeless people.

 

The Moquis of Arizona are the most primitive of the Pueblo

Indians and are worthy representatives of their race.  They are

of the Aztecan branch of the Shoshonean family and probably the

lineal descendents of the cliff dwellers.  Their home is on the

Painted Desert in northeastern Arizona where they have lived for

many centuries.  It is a barren and desolate spot and has been

likened to Hades with its fires extinguished.  Nevertheless it is

an exceedingly interesting region and furnishes many attractions.

The landscape is highly picturesque and the phantasmagoric

effects of the rarified atmosphere are bewitching.

 

In the early Spanish days Moqui land was designated as the

Province of Tusayan and was shrouded in mystery.  The seven Moqui

towns were at one time regarded as the seven Cities of Cibola,

but later it was decided that Zuni and not Moqui was the true

Cibola.

 

When Coronado, at the head of his intrepid army, marched through

the land in the year 1540, he procured native guides to aid him

in exploring the country, hoping to find fabulous wealth which

failed to materialize.  He heard of a race of giants whom he

wished to meet, but instead of finding them discovered a river

with banks so high that they "seemed to be raised three or four

leagues into the air."  What he saw was the Colorado River with

its gigantic canon walls and wealth of architectural grandeur and

beauty.  The bewildering sight naturally astonished him as it

does every beholder.  Think of a fissure in the earth over a mile

deep!  But the Grand Canon of Arizona is more that a simple

fissure in the earth.  It is composed of many canons which form a

seemingly endless labyrinth of winding aisles and majestic

avenues--fit promenades for the Gods.

 

The land of the Moquinos is full of surprises and, although they

are not all as startling as the Grand Canon, they are

sufficiently striking to make Arizona a wonderland that is second

to none on the continent.

 

The Moquis live in seven towns or pueblos which are built upon

three rocky mesas that are many miles apart.  The mesas are about

seven thousand feet above sea level and from six to eight hundred

feet higher than the surrounding plain.  Upon the first or

eastern mesa are located the three towns of Te-wa, Si-chom-ovi

and Wal-pi.  Tewa is the newest of the three towns and was built

by the Tehuan allies who came as refugees from the Rio Grande

after the great rebellion of 1680.  They were granted permission

to build on the spot by agreeing to defend the Gap, where the

trail leaves the mesa, against all intruders.

 

Upon the second or middle mesa are the towns of Mi-shong-novi,

Shi-pauli-ovi and Shong-o-pavi; and on the third mesa is

O-rai-bi, which is the largest of the Moqui villages, and equal

to the other six in size and population.  The entire population

of the seven Moqui towns numbers about two thousand souls.

 

In 1583 Espejo estimated that the Moquis numbered fifty thousand,

which, doubtless, was an over estimate, as he has been accused of

exaggeration.  However, since their discovery their numbers have

greatly diminished and steadily continue to decrease, as if it

were also to be their fate to become extinct like the ancient

cliff dwellers.

 

The Moqui Pueblos are well protected by natural barriers upon all

sides except towards the south.  Perched upon their high mesas

the people have been safe from every attack of an enemy, but

their fields and flocks in the valley below were defenseless.

The top of the several mesas can only be reached by ascending

steep and difficult trails which are hard to climb but easy to

defend.  The paths on the mesas have been cut deep into the hard

rock, which were worn by the soft tread of moccasined feet during

centuries of travel, numbering, perhaps, several times the four

hundred years that are known to history.

 

The houses are built of stone and mortar, and rise in terraces

from one to five stories high, back from a street or court to a

sheer wall.  Some of the remodeled and newly built houses have

modern doors and windows.  The upper stories are reached from the

outside by ladders and stone stairways built into the walls.  The

rooms are smoothly plastered and whitewashed and the houses are

kept tidy and clean, but the streets are dirty and unsanitary.

 

In these sky cities the Moquis live a retired life that is well

suited to their quiet dispositions, love of home life and

tireless industry.  The men are kind, the women virtuous and the

children obedient.  Indeed, the children are unusually well

behaved.  They seldom quarrel or cry, and a spoiled child cannot

be found among them.  The Moquis love peace, and never fight

among themselves.  If a dispute occurs it is submitted to a peace

council of old men, whose decision is final and obeyed without a

murmur.

 

They are shy and suspicious of strangers, but if addressed by the

magic word lolomi, their reserve is instantly gone.  It is the

open sesame to their hearts and homes, and after that the house

contains nothing too good to bestow upon the welcome guest.  They

are true children of nature, and have not yet become corrupted by

the vices of white civilization.  The worst thing they do is that

the men smoke tobacco.

 

Their industries are few, but afford sufficient income to provide

for their modest needs.  They are primarily tillers of the soil,

and as agriculturists succeed under circumstances that would

wholly baffle and discourage an eastern farmer.  Several years

ago a man was sent out from Washington to teach the Moquis

agriculture, but before a year had passed the teacher had to buy

corn from the Indians.  They make baskets and pottery, weave

cloth and dress skins for their own use and to barter in trade

with their neighbors.  They like silver and have skilled workmen

who make the white metal into beads and buttons and various

trinkets for personal adornment.  They care nothing for gold, and

silver is their only money.  Chalchihuitl is their favorite gem

and to own a turquoise stone is regarded as an  omen of good

fortune to the happy possessor.

 

Just how the Spaniards got the notion that the Moquis loved gold

and possessed vast stores of that precious metal is not apparent

unless it be, as Bandelier suggests, that it originated in the

myth of the El Dorado, or Gilded Man.[9] The story started at

Lake Guatanita in Bogota, and traveled north to Quivera, but the

wealth that the Spaniards sought they never found.  Their journey

led them over deserts that gave them but little food and only a

meager supply of water, and ended in disaster.

 

[9] The Gilded Man, by A. F. Bandelier, 1893.

 

 

The mesas are all rock and utterly barren, and their supplies are

all brought from a distance over difficult trails.  The water is

carried in ollas by the women from springs at the foot of the

mesa; wood is packed on burros from distant forests; and corn,

melons and peaches are brought home by the men when they return

from their work in the fields.  A less active and industrious

people, under similar circumstances, would soon starve to death,

but the Moquis are self-supporting and have never asked nor

received any help from Uncle Sam.

 

In the early morning the public crier proclaims in stentorian

tones from the housetop the program for the day, which sends

everyone to his daily task.  They are inured to labor and do not

count work as a hardship.  It is only by incessant toil that they

succeed at all in earning a living with the scanty resources at

their command, and the only surprise is that they succeed so

well.  There is scarcely an hour during the day or night that men

and women are not either coming or going on some errand to

provision the home.

 

The men travel many miles every day going to and from their work

in the fields.  If a man owns a burro he sometimes rides, but

usually prefers to walk.  What the burro does not pack, the man

carries on his back.  He often sings at his work, just as the

white man does in any farming community, and his song sounds

good.

 

The burro is the common carrier and, because of his sterling

qualities, is a prime favorite in all of the pueblos.  If he has

any faults they are all condoned except one, that of theft.  If

he is caught eating in a corn field he is punished as a thief by

having one of his ears cut off; and if the offense is repeated he

loses his other ear in the same manner.

 

The area of tillable land is limited and is found only in small

patches, which cause the farms to be widely scattered.  The soil

is mostly sand which the wind drifts into dunes that sometimes

cover and destroy the growing crops.  The peach trees are often

buried in sand or only their top branches remain visible.  There

are no running streams of water and rains are infrequent.

 

Corn is the principal crop and support of the Moquis.  If there

is a good crop the surplus is stored away and kept to be used in

the future should a crop fail.  The corn is planted in irregular

hills and cultivated with a hoe.  It is dropped into deep holes

made with a stick and covered up.  There is always enough

moisture in the sand to sprout the seed which, aided by an

occasional shower, causes it to grow and mature a crop.  The corn

is of a hardy, native variety that needs but little water to make

it grow.  The grain is small and hard like popcorn and ripens in

several colors.

 

It is carried home from the field by the men, and ground into

meal by the women.  The sound of the grinding is heard in the

street and is usually accompanied by a song that sounds weird but

musical.  The meal is ground into different grades of fineness

and when used for bread is mixed with water to form a thin batter

which is spread by the hand upon a hot, flat stone.  It is

quickly baked and makes a thin wafer that is no thicker than

paper.  When done it is removed from the stone by the naked hand

and is rolled or folded into loaves which makes their prized pici

bread.  It is said to be only one of fifty different methods

which the Moquis have of preparing corn for the table, or about

twice the number of styles known to any modern chef.

 

The Moqui woman is favored above many of her sex who live in

foreign lands.  As a child she receives much attention and toys

galore, as the parents are very fond of their children and devote

much time to their amusement.  They make dolls of their Katcinas

which are given to the children to play with.  A Katcina is the

emblem of a deity that is represented either in the form of a

doll carved out of wood, woven into a plaque or basket, or

painted on tiles and pottery.  There are between three and four

hundred Katcina dolls each one representing a different divinity.

When a doll is given to a child it is taught what it means, thus

combining instruction with amusement.  The method is a perfect

system of kindergarten teaching, which the Moquis invented and

used centuries before the idea occurred to Froebel.

 

When the girl is ten years old her education properly begins and

she is systematically inducted into the mysteries of

housekeeping.  At fifteen she has completed her curriculum and

can cook, bake, sew, dye, spin and weave and is, indeed,

graduated in all the accomplishments of the finished Moqui

maiden.  She now does up her hair in two large coils or whorls,

one on each side of the head, which is meant to resemble a

full-blown squash blossom and signifies that the wearer is of

marriageable age and in the matrimonial market.  It gives her a

striking yet not unbecoming appearance, and, if her style of

coiffure were adopted by modern fashion it would be something

unusually attractive.  As represented by Donaldson in the

eleventh census report the handsome face of Pootitcie, a maiden

of the pueblo of Sichomovi, makes a pretty picture that even her

white sisters must admire.  After marriage the hair is let down

and done up in two hard twists that fall over the shoulders.

This form represents a ripe, dried squash blossom and means

fruitfulness.

 

Her dress is not Spanish nor yet altogether Indian, but is

simple, comfortable and becoming, which is more than can be said

of some civilized costumes.  She chooses her own husband,

inherits her mother's name and property and owns the house in

which she lives.  Instead of the man owning and bossing

everything, as he so dearly loves to do in our own civilization,

the property and labor of the Moqui husband and wife are equally

divided, the former owning and tending the fields and flocks and

the latter possessing and governing the house.

 

The Moquis are famous for their games, dances and festivals,

which have been fully described by Dr. J. Walter Fewkes in

various reports to the Smithsonian Institution.  They have many

secret orders, worship the supernatural, and believe in

witchcraft.  Their great fete day is the Snake Dance, which is

held in alternate years at Walpi and Oraibi, at the former place

in the odd year and at the latter place in the even year, some

time during the month of August.  It is purely a religious

ceremony, an elaborate supplication for rain, and is designed to

propitiate the water god or snake deity.

 

Preliminary ceremonies are conducted in the secret Kiva several

days preceding the public dance.  The Kiva is an underground

chamber that is cut out of the solid rock, and is entered by a

ladder.  It has but a single opening on top on a level with the

street, which serves as door, window and chimney.  The room is

only used by the men, and is, in fact, a lodge room, where the

members of the several secret orders meet and engage in their

solemn ceremonials.  It is a sacred place, a holy of holies,

which none but members of a lodge may enter, and is carefully

guarded.

 

The snakes used in the dance are all wild, and captured out on

the open plain.  Four days prior to the dance the snake men,

dressed in scanty attire and equipped with their snake-capturing

paraphernalia, march out in squads and scour the surrounding

country in search of snakes.  One day each is spent in searching

the ground towards the four points of the compass, in the order

of north, west, south and east, returning at the close of each

day with their catch to the Kiva, where the snakes are kept and

prepared for the dance.  The snakes caught are of several

varieties, but much the largest number are rattlesnakes.

Respect is shown for serpents of every variety and none are ever

intentionally harmed, but the rattlesnake is considered the most

sacred and is proportionately esteemed.  Its forked tongue

represents lightning, its rattle thunder and its spots

rain-clouds.  The number of snakes they find is surprising, as

they catch from one to two hundred during the four days' hunt on

ground that might be carefully searched by white men for months

without finding a single reptile.

 

The snake men are very expert in catching and handling serpents,

and are seldom bitten.  If one is bitten it is nothing serious,

as they have a secret medicine which they use that is both

prophylactic and curative, and makes them immune to the poison so

that no harm ever results from a bite.  The medicine is taken

internally and also applied locally.  Efforts have been made to

discover its composition but without success.  If a snake is

located which shows fight by the act of coiling it is tickled

with a snake-whip made of eagle's feathers, which soon soothes

its anger and causes it to uncoil and try to run away.  It is

then quickly and safely caught up and dropped from the hand into

a bag carried for that purpose.

 

Visitors who attend the dance are under no restrictions, but are

free to come and go as they please, either sightseeing or in

search of curios.  If the visitor has a supply of candy, matches

and smoking-tobacco to give away he finds frequent opportunities

to bestow his gifts.  The children ask for "canty," the women

want "matchi," and the men are pleased with a "smoke."

 

On the morning of the dance both the men and women give their

hair an extra washing by using a mixture of water and crushed

soap-root.  The white fibers of the soap-root get mixed with the

hair, which gives it a tinge of iron gray.  The children also get

a bath which, because of the great scarcity of water, is not of

daily occurrence.

 

To the Moquis the snake dance is a serious and solemn affair, but

to the visitors it is apt to be an occasion for fun and frolic.

Owing to a misunderstanding of its true meaning, and because of

misconduct in the past on similar occasions, notice is posted on

the Kiva asking visitors to abstain from loud laughing and

talking.  In other words it is a polite request made by the rude

red man of his polished (?) white brother to please behave

himself.

 

The dance begins late in the afternoon and lasts less than one

hour, but while it is in progress the action is intense.  The

snakes are carried in a bag or jar from the Kiva to the Kisa,

built of cotton-wood boughs on one side of the plaza, where the

snakes are banded out to the dancers.  After much marching and

countermarching about the plaza, chanting weird songs and shaking

rattles, the column of snake priests, dressed in a fantastic garb

of paint, fur and feathers, halts in front of the Kisa and breaks

up into groups of three.

 

The carrier takes a snake from the Kisa puts it in his mouth, and

carries it there while dancing.  Some of the more ambitious young

men will carry two or more of the smaller snakes at the same

time.  The hugger throws his left arm over the shoulder of the

carrier and with his right hand fans the snake with his feather

whip.  The gatherer follows after and picks up the snakes as they

fall to the ground.

 

After the snakes have all been danced they are thrown into a heap

and sprinkled with sacred corn meal by the young women.  The

scattering of the meal is accompanied by a shower of spittle from

the spectators, who are stationed on, convenient roofs and

ladders viewing the ceremony.  Fleet runners now catch up the

snakes in handfuls and dash off in an exciting race over the mesa

and down rocky trails to the plains below where the snakes are

returned unharmed to their native haunts.

 

While the men are away disposing of the reptiles the women carry

out large ollas, or jars, filled with a black liquid, which is

the snake medicine that is used in the final act of purification

by washing.  When the men return to the mesa they remove their

regalias and proceed to drink of the snake medicine which acts as

an emetic.  With the remainder of the concoction, and assisted by

the women, they wash their bodies free from paint.  After the men

are all washed and puked they re-enter the Kiva, where the long

fast is broken by a feast and the formal ceremonies of the snake

dance are ended.

 

The snake dance is annually witnessed by many visitors who gather

from different sections of the country and even foreign lands.

As there are no hotels to entertain guests every visitor must

provide his own outfit for conveyance, eating and sleeping.  Even

water is scarce.  Local springs barely furnish enough water to

supply the native population; and when the number of people to be

supplied is increased from one to two hundred by the visitors who

attend the dance, the water question becomes a serious problem.

 

On the lower portion of the road which leads up from the spring

to the gap at Walpi on the first mesa, the trail is over drifted

sand which makes difficult walking.  To remedy this defect in the

trail, a path has been made of flat stones laid in the sand,

which shows that the Moquis are quick to recognize and utilize an

advantage that contributes to their convenience and comfort.

 

The Santa Fe Pacific is the nearest railroad, which runs about

one hundred miles south of the Moqui villages.  The tourist can

secure transportation at reasonable rates of local liverymen

either from Holbrook, Winslow, Canon Diablo or Flagstaff.  The

trip makes an enjoyable outing that is full of interest and

instruction from start to finish.

 

Some years ago the government, through its agents, began to

civilize and Christianize these Indians and established a school

at Keam's Canon, nine miles east of the first mesa, for that

purpose.  When the school was opened the requisition for a

specified number of children from each pueblo was not filled

until secured by force.  As free citizens of the United States,

being such by the treaty made with Mexico in 1848 and, indeed,

already so under a system of self-government superior to our own

and established long before Columbus discovered America, they

naturally resented any interference in their affairs but, being

in the minority and overpowered, had to submit.

 

When the object of the school was explained to them, they

consented to receive secular instructions but objected to any

religious teaching.  They asked to have schools opened in the

pueblos on the plan of our public schools where the children

could attend during the day and return home at night, and their

home life be not broken up, but their prayer was denied.

 

The reservation school was opened for the purpose of instructing

the Moqui children in civilization, but the results obtained have

not been entirely satisfactory.  The methods employed for

enforcing discipline have been unnecessarily severe and have

given dissatisfaction.  As recently as the year 1903 the children

of this inoffensive and harmless people were forcibly taken from

their homes and put into the schools.  The time selected for

doing the dastardly deed was during the night in midwinter when

the weather was cold and the ground covered with snow.  Under the

orders of the superintendent the reservation police made the raid

without warning or warrant of any kind.  While the people slept,

the police entered their houses, dragged the little children from

their comfortable beds and drove them naked out into the snow and

cold, where they were rounded up and herded like cattle.

 

The indignity and outrage of this and other similar acts have

embittered the Moquis until they have lost what little respect

they ever had for Christianity and civilization.  The policy of

the government is to make them do whatever they do not want to

do, to break up the family and scatter its members.  The

treatment has created two factions among the Moquis known as the

"hostiles" who are only hostile in opposing oppression and any

change in their religious faith and customs; and the "friendlies"

who are willing to obey the boss placed over them and comply with

his demands.

 

Religion is the dearest treasure of mankind, and when assailed

always finds ready defenders.  Possessed by this innate feeling

of right and rankling with the injustice of the past, is it

surprising that they should spurn any proffered help?  They

remember what they have suffered in the past and do not care to

repeat the experiment.  To this day the Moquis hold the mission

epoch in contempt and nothing could induce them to accept

voluntarily any proposition that savored ought of the old regime.

Every vestige of that period has been obliterated from the

pueblos that nothing tangible should remain to remind them of

their undeserved humiliation.

 

They are a highly religious people worshiping after their own

creed, and are sincere and conscientious in their devotions.

Almost everything they do has some religious significance and

every day its religious observance.  Their religion satisfies

them and harms no one, then why not leave them in peace?  We

believe that we can benefit them, which is doubtless true, but

might they not also teach us some useful lessons?  It would

sometimes be more to our credit if we were less anxious to teach

others, and more willing to learn ourselves.

 

Next to their religion they love their homes most.  The rocks

upon which they live, are they not dear from associations?  Is it

not the land of their birth and the home of their fathers during

many generations?  They cling with stubborn tenacity to their

barren mesas and nothing thus far has succeeded in driving them

away; neither war, pestilence nor famine.  Repeated attempts have

been made to induce them to leave, but without success.

 

Tom Polaki, the principal man of Tewa, was the first man to

respond to the call to come down.  He left the mesa several years

ago, and went to the plain below to live.  Having captured the

bell wether it was presumed that the balance of the flock would

soon follow, but the contrary proved to be true.  At the foot of

the bluff near a spring on the road that leads up to the gap Tom

built a modern house and tried to imitate the white man.  But the

change did not suit him, and after living in his modern house for

a number of years, he finally sold it and returned to his old

home on the mesa.  A few others at different times have tried the

same experiment with no better success.  The man would stay for a

short time in the house provided for him, but never made it a

permanent home for his family.

 

That the Moquis are changing is best illustrated by reference to

one of their marriage customs.  It is the custom when a youth

contemplates matrimony to make a marriage blanket.  He grows the

cotton, spins the yarn and weaves the cloth, which requires a

year or more of time to finish.  Since the children have gone to

school it is not deemed necessary for a young man to go to so

much trouble and expense as to make a marriage blanket, but

instead, he borrows one from a friend in the village, and after

the ceremony is over returns it to the owner.  Even now it is not

easy to find such a blanket, and very soon they will be priceless

as no more such garments will be made.

 

The only reasonable explanation why any people should select a

location like that of the Moquis is on the hypothesis of choice.

There is much of the animal in human nature that is influenced by

instinct, and man, like the brute, often unconsciously selects

what is most congenial to his nature.  Thus instinct teaches the

eagle to nest on the highest crag and the mountain sheep to

browse in pastures which only the hardiest hunter dare approach.

For no better reason, apparently, do the Moquis occupy their

barren mesas; they simply prefer to live there above any other

place.

 

Safety has been urged as a motive for their conduct but it alone

is not a sufficient reason for solving the problem.  Their

position is safe enough from attack but in the event of a siege

their safety would only be temporary.  With their scant water

supply at a distance and unprotected they could not hold out long

in a siege, but would soon be compelled either to fight, fly or

famish.

 

Again, if safety was their only reason for staying, they could

have left long ago and had nothing to fear, as they have been for

many years at peace with their ancient enemy the predatory

Navajo.  But rather than go they have chosen to remain in their

old home where they have always lived, and will continue to live

so long as they are left free to choose.

 

The modern iconoclast in his unreasonable devotion to realism

has, perhaps, stripped them of much old time romance, but even

with all of that gone, enough of fact remains to make them a

remarkable people.  Instead of seeking to change them this last

bit of harmless aboriginal life should be spared and preserved,

if possible, in all of its native purity and simplicity.

 

 

 

CHAPTER XIV

A FINE CLIMATE

 

The climate of Arizona as described in the local vernacular is

"sure fine."  The combination of elements which make the climate

is unusual and cannot be duplicated elsewhere upon the American

continent.  The air is remarkably pure and dry.  Siccity, indeed,

is its distinguishing feature.  That the climate is due to

geographical and meteorological conditions cannot be doubted, but

the effects are unexplainable by any ordinary rules.

 

The region involved not only embraces Arizona, but also includes

portions of California and Mexico and is commonly known as the

Colorado Desert.  Yuma, at the junction of the Gila and Colorado

rivers, is approximately its geographical center.  The general

aspect of the country is low and flat and in the Salton sink the

dry land dips several hundred feet below the level of the ocean.

Only by extreme siccity is such land possible when more water

rises in evaporation than falls by precipitation.  There are but

few such places in the world, the deepest one being the Dead Sea,

which is about thirteen hundred feet lower than the ocean.

 

The Colorado Basin is the dry bed of an ancient sea whose shore

line is yet visible in many places upon the sides of the

mountains which surround it.  Its floor is composed of clay with

deposits of sand and salt.  Strong winds sometimes sweep over it

that shift and pile up the sand in great dunes.  The entire

region is utterly bare and desolate, yet by the use of water

diverted from the Colorado river it is being reclaimed to

agriculture.

 

The rainfall is very scant the average annual precipitation at

Yuma being less than three inches.  The climate is not dry from

any lack of surface water, as it has the Gila and Colorado

rivers, the Gulf of California and the broad Pacific Ocean to

draw from.  But the singular fact remains that the country is

extremely dry and that it does not rain as in other lands.

 

Neither is the rainfall deficient from any lack of evaporation.

Upon the contrary the evaporation is excessive and according to

the estimate of Major Powell amounts fully to one hundred inches

of water per annum.  If the vapors arising from this enormous

evaporation should all be condensed into clouds and converted

into rain it would create a rainy season that would last

throughout the year.

 

The humidity caused by an abundant rainfall in any low, hot

country is usually enough to unfit it for human habitation.  The

combined effect of heat and moisture upon a fertile soil causes

an excess of both growing and decaying vegetation that fills the

atmosphere with noxious vapors and disease producing germs.  The

sultry air is so oppressive that it is more than physical

endurance can bear.  The particles of vapor which float in the

atmosphere absorb and hold the heat until it becomes like a

steaming hot blanket that is death to unacclimated life.  All of

this is changed where siccity prevails.  The rapid evaporation

quickly dispels the vapors and the dry heat desiccates the

disease creating germs and makes them innocuous.

 

The effect of heat upon the body is measured by the difference in

the actual and sensible temperatures, as recorded by the dry and

wet bulb thermometers.  When both stand nearly together as they

are apt to do in a humid atmosphere, the heat becomes

insufferable.  In the dry climate of Arizona such a condition

cannot occur.  The difference in the two instruments is always

great, often as much as forty degrees.  For this reason, a

temperature of 118 degrees F. at Yuma is less oppressive than 98

degrees F. is in New York.  A low relative humidity gives comfort

and freedom from sunstroke even when the thermometer registers

the shade temperature in three figures.

 

A dry, warm climate is a stimulant to the cutaneous function.

The skin is an important excreting organ that is furnished with a

large number of sweat glands which are for the dual purpose of

furnishing moisture for cooling the body by evaporation and the

elimination of worn out and waste material from the organism.  As

an organ it is not easily injured by over work, but readily lends

its function in an emergency in any effort to relieve other tired

or diseased organs of the body.  By vicarious action the skin is

capable of performing much extra labor without injury to itself

and can be harnessed temporarily for the relief of some vital

part which has become crippled until its function can be

restored.

 

A diseased kidney depends particularly upon the skin for succor

more than any other organ.  When the kidneys from any cause fail

to act the skin comes to their rescue and throws off impurities

which nature intended should go by the renal route.  For this

reason diabetes and albuminuria, the most stubborn of all kidney

diseases, are usually benefited by a dry, warm climate.  The

benefit derived is due to an increase of the insensible

transpiration rather than to profuse perspiration.  The air of

Arizona is so dry and evaporation so rapid that an increase in

perspiration is scarcely noticeable except when it is confined by

impervious clothing.  The disagreeable feeling of wet clothes

which accompanies profuse perspiration in a damp climate is

changed to an agreeable sensation of coolness in a dry one.

 

The atmosphere of Arizona is not only dry but also very

electrical, so much so, indeed, that at times it becomes almost

painful.  Whenever the experiment is tried, sparks can be

produced by friction or the handling of metal, hair or wool.  It

affects animals as well as man, and literally causes "the hair to

stand on end."  The writer has on various occasions seen a string

of horses standing close together at a watering-trough, drinking,

so full of electricity that their manes and tails were spread out

and floated in the air, and the long hairs drawn by magnetic

attraction from one animal to the other all down the line in a

spontaneous effort to complete a circuit.  There are times when

the free electricity in the air is so abundant that every object

becomes charged with the fluid, and it cannot escape fast enough

or find "a way out" by any adequate conductor.  The effects of

such an excess of electricity is decidedly unpleasant on the

nerves, and causes annoying irritability and nervousness.

 

The hot sun sometimes blisters the skin and burns the complexion

to a rich, nut-brown color, but the air always feels soft and

balmy, and usually blows only in gentle zephyrs.  The air has a

pungent fragrance which is peculiar to the desert, that is the

mingled product of a variety of resinous plants.  The weather is

uniformly pleasant, and the elements are rarely violently

disturbed.

 

In the older settled sections of our country, whenever there is

any sudden or extreme change in the weather of either heat or

cold, wet or dry, it is always followed by an increase of

sickness and death.  The aged and invalid, who are sensitive and

weak, suffer mostly, as they feel every change in the weather.

There is, perhaps, no place on earth that can boast of a perfect

climate, but the country that can show the fewest and mildest

extremes approaches nearest to the ideal.  The southwest is

exceptionally favored in its climatic conditions, and is

beneficial to the majority of chronic invalids.

 

Atmospheric pressure is greatest near the earth's surface, and

exerts a controlling influence over the vital functions.

Atmospheric pressure is to the body what the governor is to

the steam engine, or the pendulum to the clock.  It regulates

vital action, insures safety and lessens the wear and tear of

machinery.  Under its soothing influence the number of

respirations per minute are diminished, the heart beats decreased

in frequency, and the tired brain and nerves rested.  It is often

better than medicine, and will sometimes give relief when all

other means fail.

 

Arizona has a diversity of altitudes, and therefore furnishes a

variety of climates.  The elevations range from about sea level

at Yuma to nearly thirteen thousand feet upon the San Francisco

mountains.  By making suitable changes in altitude to fit the

season it is possible to enjoy perpetual spring.

 

Because Arizona is far south geographically it is only natural to

suppose that it is all very hot, which is a mistake.  In the low

valleys of southern Arizona the summers are hot, but it is a dry

heat which is not oppressive, and the winters are delightfully

pleasant.  In northern Arizona the winters are cold and the

summers cool.  There is no finer summer climate in the world than

is found on the high plateaus and pine-topped mountains of

northern Arizona.  Prescott, Williams and Flagstaff have a

charming summer climate, while at Yuma, Phoenix and Tucson the

winter weather is simply perfect.

 

A mountain residence is not desirable for thin, nervous people or

such as are afflicted with any organic disease.  A high altitude

is too stimulating for this class of patients and tends to

increase nervousness and aggravates organic disease.  Such

persons should seek a coast climate and a low altitude, which is

sedative, rather than risk the high and dry interior.  Any coast

climate is better than the mountains for nervous people, but the

Pacific Coast is preferable to any other because of its freedom

from electrical storms and every other form of disagreeable

meteorological disturbance that tries the nerves.  The

nervousness that is produced by a high altitude does not, as a

rule, develop suddenly, but grows gradually upon the patient.

Those of a sensitive nature feel it most and women more than men.

After making a change from a low to a high altitude sleep may be

sound for a time, but it soon becomes fitful and unrefreshing.

 

It has been discovered that altitude increases the amount of

hemoglobulin and thus enriches the blood and is particularly

beneficial to pale, thin people.  It also sharpens the appetite

and promotes digestion and assimilation.

 

Persons suffering from rheumatism, neuralgia, advanced pulmonary

consumption, organic heart disease and all disorders of the brain

and nerves should avoid a high altitude.  Patients that are

afflicted with any of the above-mentioned diseases are more

comfortable in a low altitude and should choose between the coast

of California and the low, dry lands of the lower Gila and

Colorado rivers, according to the season of the year and the

quality of climate desired.

 

The diseases which are especially benefited by the climate of

Arizona are consumption, bronchitis, catarrh and hay fever.

Anyone going in search of health who has improved by the change

should remain where the improvement took place lest by returning

home and being again subjected to the former climatic conditions

which caused the disease the improvement be lost and the old

disease re-established with increased severity.

 

Most sick people who are in need of a change live in a humid

atmosphere where the winters are extremely cold and the summers

uncomfortably hot, and to be benefited by a change must seek a

climate in which the opposite conditions prevail.  The climate of

the southwest furnishes just what such invalids require.  The

sick who need cold or damp weather, if there be any such, can be

accommodated almost anywhere, but those who want a warm, dry

climate must go where it can be found.  Not every invalid who

goes in search of health finds a cure, as many who start on such

a journey are already past help when they leave home.  When a

case is hopeless the patient should not undertake such a trip,

but remain quietly at home and die in peace among friends.

 

As already intimated the climate of the Colorado basin is ideal

in winter, but becomes very hot in summer.  Its low altitude,

rainless days, cloudless skies and balmy air form a combination

that is unsurpassed and is enjoyed by all either sick or well.

The heat of summer does not create sickness, but becomes

monotonous and tiresome from its steady and long continuance.

Many residents of the Territory who tire of the heat and can

afford the trip take a vacation during the summer months and

either go north to the Grand Canon and the mountains or to the

Pacific Coast.  Every summer witnesses a hegira of sun baked

people fleeing from the hot desert to the mountains or ocean

shore in search of coolness and comfort.

 

Life in the tropics, perhaps, inclines to indolence and languor,

particularly if the atmosphere is humid, but in a dry climate

like that of Arizona the heat, although sometimes great, is never

oppressive or debilitating.  It has its lazy people like any

other country and for the same reason that there are always some

who were born tired and never outgrow the tired feeling, but

Arizona climate is more bracing than enervating.

 

The adobe house of the Mexican is a peculiar institution of the

southwest.  It may be interesting on account of its past history,

but it is certainly not pretty.   It is nothing more than a box

of dried mud with its roof, walls and floor all made of dirt.  It

is never free from a disagreeable earthy smell which, if mingled

with the added odors of stale smoke and filth, as is often the

case, makes the air simply vile.  The house can never be kept

tidy because of the dirt which falls from the adobe, unless the

walls and ceilings are plastered and whitewashed, which is

sometimes done in the better class of houses.  If the house is

well built it is comfortable enough in pleasant weather, but as

often as it rains the dirt roof springs a leak and splashes water

and mud over everything.  If by chance the house stands on low

ground and is surrounded by water, as sometimes happens, after a

heavy rain the walls become soaked and dissolved into mud when

the house collapses.  The adobe house may have been suited to the

wants of a primitive people, but in the present age of

improvement, it is scarcely worth saving except it be as a relic

of a vanishing race.

 

In order to escape in a measure the discomforts of the midday

heat the natives either seek the shade in the open air where the

breeze blows, or, what is more common, close up tight the adobe

house in the morning and remain indoors until the intense heat

from the scorching sun penetrates the thick walls, which causes

the inmates to move out.  In the cool of the evening they visit

and transact business and when the hour comes for retiring go to

bed on cots made up out of doors where they sleep until morning,

while the house is left open to cool off during the night.  This

process is repeated every day during the hot summer months and is

endured without complaint.

 

The natives, also, take advantage of the dry air to operate a

novel method of refrigeration.  The cloth covered army canteen

soaked in water and the handy water jug of the eastern harvest

field wrapped in a wet blanket are familiar examples of an

ineffectual attempt at refrigeration by evaporation.  But natural

refrigeration find its best illustration in the arid regions of

the southwest by the use of an olla, which is a vessel made of

porous pottery, a stout canvas bag or a closely woven Indian

basket.  A suitable vessel is selected, filled with water and

suspended somewhere in midair in the shade.  If it is hung in a

current of air it is all the better, as any movement of the

atmosphere facilitates evaporation.  A slow seepage of water

filters through the open pores of the vessel which immediately

evaporates in the dry air and lowers the temperature.  The water

in the olla soon becomes cold and if properly protected will

remain cool during the entire day.

 

The dry air also acts as a valuable preservative.  During the

winter, when the weather is cool but not freezing, if fresh meat

is hung out in the open air, it will keep sweet a long time.  A

dry crust soon forms upon its surface which hermetically seals

the meat from the air and keeps it perfectly sweet.  In the

summer it is necessary to dry the meat more quickly to keep it

from spoiling.  It is then made into "jerky" by cutting it into

long, thin strips and hanging them up in the sun to dry.  After

it is thoroughly dried, it is tied up in bags and used as needed,

either by eating it dry from the pocket when out on a tramp, or,

if in camp, serving it in a hot stew.

 

Even the carcass of a dead animal that is left exposed upon the

ground to decompose does not moulder away by the usual process of

decay, but what is left of the body after the hungry buzzards and

coyotes have finished their feast, dries up into a mummy that

lasts for years.

 

Climate everywhere unquestionably influences life in its

evolution, but it is not always easy to determine all of its

effects in detail.  In Arizona, which is but a comparatively

small corner of our country, live several races of men that are

as different from each other as nature could make them, yet all

live in the same climate.

 

The Pueblo Indian is in a manner civilized, peaceable and

industrious.  He is brave in self-defense, but never seeks war

nor bloodshed.  Quite different is his near neighbor, the

bloodthirsty Apache, who seems to delight only in robbing and

killing people.  Cunning and revenge are pronounced traits of his

character and the Government has found him difficult to conquer

or control.  The Mexican leads a shiftless, thriftless life and

seems satisfied merely to exist.  He has, unfortunately,

inherited more of the baser than the better qualities of his

ancestors, and, to all appearance, is destined to further

degenerate.  The American is the last comer and has already

pushed civilization and commerce into the remotest corners and,

as usual, dominates the land.

 

As diverse as are these several races in many respects, each one

of them furnishes splendid specimens of physical manhood.  The

Indian has always been noted for his fine physique, and is large

bodied, well muscled and full chested.  One advantage which the

southwest has over other countries is that the climate is mild

and favorable to an outdoor life, which is conducive to health

and physical development.

 

No single race of men flourish equally well everywhere, but each

one is affected by its own surroundings; and, what is true of a

race, is also true of an individual.  The pioneer in any country

is always an interesting character, but he differs in

peculiarities according to his environment of mountain, plain or

forest.  Occupation also exerts an influence and in time develops

distinct types like the trapper, miner, soldier and cowboy, that

only the graphic pencil of a Remington can accurately portray.

The eccentricities of character which are sometimes met in men

who dwell on the frontier are not always due alone to

disposition, but are largely the product of the wild life which

they live, that inclines them to be restless, reckless and even

desperate.

 

There is no better field for observing and studying the effects

of environment upon human life than is furnished by the arid

region of the southwest.